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I’m frequently asked for recommendations on what robot vacuum to get. While I’ve got favorites, I usually respond with a list of features I’d look for. Each year, robots get so much more advanced that these features change. But if I were buying a robot vacuum tomorrow (or in the next big sale), here’s what I’d look for. 

Unless you’ve got wall-to-wall carpet, get a vacuum/mop combo

Generally, people shy away from combo products because each new functionality is an additional feature that can break. There’s also a belief that one of the features won’t be as good as the other. For a while, expecting the vacuum and mop to be equally great on robot vacuums was unreasonable, but that’s not true anymore. Furthermore, starting in 2024, robots had AI added to their little robot brains that stopped toggling between vacuuming and mopping—instead, it identifies dirt/detritus, and uses whatever tools it has to fix the problem. The mops have become leagues better than they were,too. One favorite in this regard is the Dreame X50. 

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Robots that only vacuum aren’t even cheaper most of the time. For every vacuum, there’s a vacuum/mop combo in the same price range. Unless you’re only working with carpet in your home, get the robot equipped with the most tools for handling your floors, which means a combo. 

Get a robot that can reach

Eureka J15 Ultra reaching sweep and mop pads
Credit: Amanda Blum

Robot vacuums are generally 11- to 14-inch pancakes of various shapes that surf your floor. In a big open space, they work well, floating over floor debris and stains and cleaning them. But a few years ago, robots were struggling to get up close to the wall and/or to other objects on the floor. This left a band of debris there, so new robots started coming out with sweeps and mops on arms that can reach out from under the robot and get closer to areas the robot can’t. Over the last two years, the reach has become long and more accurate, so in most cases, modern robots can get up close to walls, but their arms can reach into areas the robot can’t reach. Even the Dyson 360 Vis Nav, which I didn’t particularly like, had a very effective side extension that got up to the wall. Robots like the Roborock Saros 10R and the Eureka J15 Ultra have very effective extending arms. 

Roborock Saros 10R

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Eureka J15 Pro Ultra Robot Vacuum and Mop

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The dock matters as much as the robot

Much attention is paid to the robots themselves: their suction power, their mop pads, how low to the ground they are, if they can climb stairs. However, the dock is an equal partner in how well your vacuum works. To keep your robot functioning at peak performance and to keep your life easier, you want to look for specific features. I recommend docks that have removable trays in the base, so you can pull them out entirely to clean, rather than getting on the floor and trying to shove your hand into the back of the dock to try and clean it, as you had to on pre-2024 models. All modern Roborock models have this, as did the Eureka J15. But not all vacuums do. 

These days I also look for docks with a receptacle for cleaning fluid. This will auto-inject the cleanser into each batch of fresh water, so you don’t have to manually add it. In the best case scenario, this is a container you can refill with cleanser of your choice (like the Eureka J15), instead of a disposable, proprietary cleanser cartridge from the company (as with the Dreame models).  

Lastly, I cannot stress enough how important it is to check the water capacity of the dock. On both Narwal models, the Freo Z and the Freo X, I had to replace the water after every single run of the robot, making it much less autonomous. 

The roller design translates to how autonomous your robot will be

Split roller design on Saros 10
Credit: Amanda Blum

Underneath all robots are the rollers, which are either singular or double, and are what sweeps debris off the floor and into the robot itself, aided by the suction power of the robot. The rollers are also where hair gets caught, debris gets stuck, and paper clogs the robot. The design of these rollers has changed dramatically over the years, but the most effective rollers I’ve seen recently were the Roborock split design, where two rollers did not meet in the middle, giving debris an easier passage into the robot. I saw this design on the Saros 10 and the Saros 10R.

While the roller on the Dyson 360 Vis Nav was also great since it featured big fluffy brushes on the roller, the robot sat so low to the ground that a lot of debris could not be accessed by the roller, and was pushed around instead. 

Rollers with silicone fins—which most older models (and all Roombas) sport—are easily sliced through by human and dog hair, meaning they need to be replaced often.  

A lifting chassis will make the mop more effective

Dreame x50 lifting chassis
Credit: Amanda Blum

Much emphasis is placed on robots that can “climb,” which will hopefully become robots that can climb stairs.  The closest we’ve come so far is the Saros 10 and the Dreame X50, both of which can surmount a threshold of a few inches (the Dreame did a far more competent job of this).  More important than climbing, the technology robots use to lift themselves, where the front of the robot chassis is lifted, exerts pressure on the backend of the robot, where the mop is. This has a much needed effect of helping the mop pads dig into the grime on the floor, allowing for more contact and pressure. While most robot mops glide over floors, and can get up surface stains, particularly wet ones, they struggle with grime. But robots like the Saros 10 and Dreame X50 did a better job than other mops because of the pressure put upon the mop pads.

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Back when I biked everywhere, I would wear my regular sneakers and slip my feet into the toe cages I’d attached to the pedals of my bike. But when I got into the habit of riding a spin bike regularly, I grudgingly switched to “real” cycling shoes—the kind with the cleat on the bottom of the shoe that clicks into a special socket on the pedal.

I’ve written before about how I struggled those first few spin classes, trying to get the hang of using the rental shoes. It wasn’t until I got a spin bike to use at home that I realized, after a few rides, I really needed those shoes.

Why do cyclists use shoes with cleats?

Serious cyclists use cycling shoes because of how well they transfer power from your legs to the pedals. This isn’t a big deal when you’re casually biking around town, but if you expect to be able to sprint hard in a spin class or stand up from the saddle, you’ll definitely want your shoes to be up to the job.

Wear thin-soled shoes, like Chucks, and you’ll feel the outline of the pedal pressing uncomfortably into your foot. Wear flexible sneakers, like running shoes, and you’ll notice the sole bending during those out-of-saddle climbs. I ended up using hiking shoes before I finally gave in and went shopping for actual cycling shoes.

Your shoes and pedals need to be compatible

Cycling pedals and shoes are not universally compatible. If you look at the bottom of a pair of cycling shoes, there’s a metal and/or plastic attachment called a cleat. This is what locks on to the pedal.

There are a bunch of different cleat systems. Peloton uses a large, triangular cleat called LOOK Delta, while road cyclists often like Shimano’s SPD cleats, and will debate over whether the SM-SH51 or the SM-SH56 is the better one to get. (If you’re riding outdoors and you’re new to cleats, get the 56. It’s easier to unclip.)

The pedal/cleat/shoe situation can get complicated if you’re riding a bike outdoors, especially once you start considering whether you’ll also need to walk in the same shoes. This is where spin bike owners can breathe a sigh of relief. You’ll only need to walk from wherever you put your shoes on to the bike, and you don’t have to worry about how quickly you can unclip in an emergency. You just need something to connect your foot to your bike.

I chose my first pair of cleats by searching Amazon for pedals in my price range, and ended up with a pair of pedals that have a toe cage on one side and an SPD-compatible attachment on the other. I kept that in my shopping cart while I looked for shoes to match, and found a pair that could take SPD-style cleats. If you already have either the shoes or the pedals, take stock of their requirements and get matching parts.

Not sure what to search for? These cleats and pedals are sometimes called “clipless,” even though people talk about “clipping in.” That’s to distinguish them from toe clips. (You know, the cage things.) Look for “SPD pedals” and “SPD cleats” or “SPD shoes.”

How to buy a matching set

Shoes and pedals are sold separately, but here’s a tip for shopping: The cleats traditionally come with the pedals, even though they attach to the shoes. (You can also buy the cleats on their own.) So the procedure is:

• Find a pair of pedals with your chosen cleat type (such as SPD)

• Find a pair of cycling shoes that can take the appropriate type of cleat. This means they need to have screw holes in the right places. Some shoes can take multiple types of cleat; check before you buy. (Sometimes shoes will come with cleats attached, but not always.)

• Make sure that you’ll have a set of cleats for each pair of shoes. Usually the cleats come with pedals, but sometimes the shoes also do, and you can always buy cleats separately if needed.

If two people will be sharing the same bike, you’ll need two pairs of shoes and thus two pairs of cleats. You only need one set of pedals per bike, of course.

How to install your cleats (if you need to)

Typically you open up your brand-new box of pedals and find the cleats alongside them in a little baggie. Then you open up your brand-new shoes and try them on to ensure they fit as snugly as possible without hurting you, and then you install the cleats from the pedal package on your new shoes.

I found this video helpful when installing my cleats. If yours are a different style, just look up a video about the type you’ve got. Once everything is set up, take a little time to practice clipping in and out, and you’re ready to pedal.

One more thing: Read up on your style of cleat and find out what adjustments you can make. There may be a screw on the pedal itself that makes it harder or easier to clip in, and you may be able to tweak the placement of the cleat on the shoe. After a few rides, you’ll have a better sense of what you might want to adjust.

What to buy if you want SPD cleats

SPD cleats make the most sense if you ride outdoors. You can even swap out your spin bike pedals for a pair of SPD-compatible pedals so you can use the same shoes with your spin bike and your outdoor bike. Here’s what you’ll need:

• Reversible pedals with SPD on one side and toe cages on the other. They come with SPD cleats to attach to your shoes.

• Or buy a pair of standard SPD pedals (no toe cage option). They also come with cleats.

• If you need an extra pair of cleats—for example, so you can share the bike with a family member—here’s a pair of SPD SM-SH51 cleats (good for indoor cycling), and they even come with an allen wrench.

Now that you’ve got the pedals and cleats, all you need is a shoe. Fortunately, tons of cycling shoes are SPD-compatible. (They’ll have two little screw holes next to each other.) Try these:

• This Shimano unisex shoe works with SPD or Peloton cleats.

• The TIEM Slipstream looks like a cute sneaker, but is actually an SPD-compatible cycling shoe.

• The Giro Rumble is a mountain bike shoe that looks like a cross between a cycling shoe and a low-cut hiking boot. It is also SPD-compatible.

• Shimano’s “high performance” indoor cycling shoe has a twisty-knob (“BOA”) closure and great reviews.

Giro Rumble VR Mens Mountain Cycling Shoes – Ox Blood (2021), 45

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What to buy if you have a Peloton

Shoes aimed at Peloton riders often have cleats already installed because they figure you’re looking for an easy solution. But if you end up needing to buy the cleats separately, here’s a set of LOOK Delta cleats that you can attach to any compatible cycling shoes, and here’s a set that includes both the LOOK Delta pedals and cleats.

And consider your shoe options. You may feel like you should get the official Peloton shoes, but the consensus among die-hard Peloton riders is that they kind of suck. Better to pick a shoe that fits your foot and that has a convenient closure. Here are a few options:

• Here’s an inexpensive shoe that can take SPD- or Peloton-style cleats (cleats not included).

• These Betoosen shoes come with LOOK Delta (Peloton-style) cleats already installed.

• These Tomasso Pista shoes have a BOA closure and come in a variety of colorways, plus the cleats are already installed.

• These Asphodelus shoes come in artsy styles and, again, have cleats pre-installed.

tommaso Veloce II Men’s Indoor & Road Cycling Shoe – Compatible with Look Delta, SPD & SPD-SL – No Cleats – EU 47 / US 13 White/Black

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There’s the egg price problem for sure, but whether you’re trying to save grocery money or you have an aversion to eggs for dietary or health restrictions—you too deserve cake. Cake for a birthday or cake on a whim, there should be nothing holding you back from achieving your sugary dreams of the moment, least of all a lack of eggless cake recipes. I tested out five common and accessible egg replacement options to see which one produced the best eggless cake.

The batter

I decided to test a basic yellow cake recipe I’ve used before. It uses a combination of butter and oil, sugar, milk, flour, baking powder, salt, vanilla extract, and usually eggs. It’s a good layering cake since when it’s prepared as-written (with eggs), it produces a sturdy, level (not domed), vanilla scented cake. In the interest of time, making multiple batches, and reducing mess, I spooned the batter out into cupcake papers rather than into larger cake pans. The first round of cake was prepared with egg as a control. 

The replacements

Cupcakes from left to right: egg (control), banana, applesauce, yogurt.
Credit: Allie Chanthorn Reinmann

There are almost too many options for substituting eggs in cake batter, so I focused on the ones I’ve heard about the most often: mashed banana, Greek yogurt, applesauce, aquafaba, and a tapioca flour and baking powder mixture.

Eggs are essential to cake batter and other baked goods, because they’re a binder, can be a leavener, and they’re an emulsifier (they can help keep fats and liquids stable and homogenized). They also add structure and moisture to the finished product. Truly, they’re incredible. We’re looking for a single ingredient to do as much of that as possible, but it’s important to keep our expectations realistic—few other ingredients can accomplish all of that without sacrificing something.

The results

Let’s get to the good stuff—the results. Here are the best egg replacements for cake, and the worst performers.

Credit: Allie Chanthorn Reinmann

1. Aquafaba. It’s easy to dismiss aquafaba (the liquid from a can of chickpeas or other beans) until you actually use it. This cake was perfectly delicious, spongy, moist, and with no off-flavors. It was the most similar in structure and flavor to a cake prepared with whole eggs. It’s also the easiest substitution. As long as you saved some aquafaba from last night’s dinner (or do what I do and keep it handy in your freezer), you simply add three tablespoons of the bean liquid per single whole egg the recipe calls for.

I mixed it in during the same stage I would have for the egg, right after the butter and sugar got mixed together. Note that if your beans weren’t low-sodium then you may want to reduce the salt in the recipe by a quarter teaspoon.

Left: Aquafaba cupcake. Right: Tapioca and baking powder cupcake.
Credit: Allie Chanthorn Reinmann

2. Tapioca flour and baking powder. This easy to make mixture produced a good quality final product as well. Points were taken off for the mixture being an extra step, and for tapioca flour being possibly harder to source depending on where you live. The cake had more loft and was more tender than the aquafaba replacement, making it more delicate to handle if you’re stacking layers for a big cake. 

Mix one tablespoon of tapioca flour with one tablespoon of cold water. Stir in a quarter-teaspoon of baking powder, and this replaces one whole egg in your cake recipe. The mixture will be very liquidy.

The tapioca flour, baking powder, and water mixture.
Credit: Allie Chanthorn Reinmann

Alternatively, you can simply add the extra baking powder measurement to the dry ingredients. Add the tapioca and water mixture to the bowl after creaming the butter and sugar, and proceed with the recipe. You can usually find tapioca flour in the baking aisle of large supermarkets. 

3. Banana. Bananas are a great helper in batters because they actually can mimic some of what eggs do: they can bind, add moisture, and their fibers provide structure and can help keep fats and liquids suspended like eggs. Plus, they’re pretty easy to access in every region and in most grocery stores. The finished product is sturdy and moist, making it a good cake for handling and decorating. That said, bananas make your cake taste like bananas. If you don’t like that, then this totally stinks.

To use banana as an egg replacement, mash up enough banana to make a quarter-cup of banana glop per egg needed.  

4. Greek yogurt. I love when yogurt or sour cream is added to cake batters because the cake is always moist, flavorful, and tender. However, it’s not a very good egg replacement. While the flavor of the cake was delicious, the yogurt added no structure and completely caved in while cooling. For context, I used a quarter-cup of Greek yogurt to replace one whole egg. The only reason I ranked it above applesauce is because the flavor was delicious—but this would never work for a cake that I’d serve in public. Imagine if I had used an eight or nine-inch cake pan. The cake would look like a bowl. 

The applesauce and yogurt cupcakes (two on the right side) both fell after cooling.
Credit: Allie Chanthorn Reinmann

5. Applesauce. Applesauce produced similar emulsifying results to bananas but without the benefit of firm structure. You can see in the picture above that after the cake cooled, it dipped in the center. Not as dramatically as the yogurt one, but still, not great. Applesauce adds moisture but since it has less structure, the batter falls while cooling and then you end up with a stodgy center. Furthermore, I found applesauce cake to be slightly nauseating in flavor, and it overly sweetened my cake even though I used the natural kind with no added sugar. If you must use it, use a quarter-cup to replace one egg.

If you’re looking to seamlessly make cakes and cupcakes without extra steps or special ingredients, use aquafaba for the best results. It’s vegan, has good structure and moisture, and doesn’t negatively alter the flavor of your cake. It doesn’t need to be whipped for recipes where the eggs aren’t whipped, but—as an added benefit—this is the only ingredient where you can whip it to replace whipped eggs in a recipe. Aquafaba is a versatile cooking helper to keep around, and it’s essentially free if you’ve been draining it from your beans all these years.

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When my cheap Amazon spin bike broke, I wanted to upgrade to something better. But even though I was already following along with Peloton videos on the company’s app, I thought getting an actual Peloton was out of reach. Yet as I shopped, I began to change my mind: Even a good off-brand spin bike will start in the high triple digits, and it turns out Pelotons can be rented, or even purchased used. Thus began my quest for a cheaper Peloton, and in the end, I bought a used model I’m very happy with.

Mine cost $950 through a Facebook Marketplace sale in 2022. If I had taken the time to shop around and negotiate more, I likely could have found one for less. (Used Pelotons are also a lot cheaper now than they were then.) But before I could find a bike to buy, there were a lot of questions that needed answering. Let me take you on a tour through my shopping process.

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The difference between the Peloton Bike and the Bike+

Before you start shopping, you’ll need to know if you want a Peloton Bike, or a Peloton Bike+. The Bike is what you probably think of as a normal Peloton; the Bike+ has some additional features and costs about $1,000 more (new). I knew at the start that I wanted a regular Bike, so that narrowed down my shopping.

I put together a full guide to the differences between the Peloton Bike and the Bike+, but the biggest differences between the two models are:

• The Bike+ has its touchscreen on a swivel, so you can do strength or yoga classes next to the bike, instead of having to stand behind it and crane your neck to see over the seat. That said, an All-Access Peloton membership also allows you to watch strength and yoga classes from your phone or another device, so this is a nice-to-have, but not a necessity.

• The Bike+ can automatically adjust the resistance as you follow along with a class. With a regular Bike, you have to listen to the instructor tell you what resistance to use, and turn the knob yourself.

• The Bike+ has a slightly larger touchscreen (24 inches versus 22 inches) and a nicer sound system. It also has nicer components throughout, including a faster processor and more RAM.

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Do you have to pay a subscription fee to use a Peloton?

Peloton’s Bikes are intended to be used with an All-Access subscription. It costs $44 per month and gives you access to spin classes of all types, scenic rides, and Lanebreak rides (Lanebreak is essentially a video game you play by riding the bike). As noted, the All-Access subscription also comes with the ability to take classes from the Peloton app using your phone or other devices.

If you don’t have a subscription, you can still use the Bike in “Just Ride” mode, which shows you a plain black screen and some basic metrics: your cadence, resistance, output, and time. You can even use a device called the DFC to broadcast data to watches or third-party apps. So if you just want to get a workout in, but you don’t care about consuming Peloton-branded content, you can still do that without paying a monthly fee. (In that case, though, you’d probably be better off buying a non-Peloton spin bike.)

How much you’ll pay for a used, new, or refurbished Peloton, or just renting

All of the prices I discuss in this section are current as of April 2025, and are subject to change.

• Used Peloton bikes vary wildly in price and quality. Some are gently used and come with accessories; others may be cheaper but have significant wear and tear. I’m currently seeing asking prices from $400 to $850 for the standard model Bike, and $900 to $1,200 for the Bike+ (subscription not included, of course).

• New Peloton bikes run $1,445 for just the Bike, or $1,650 for a “Starter” package that comes with shoes, hand weights, a water bottle, and a mat. (The Bike+ is $2,495, or $2,700 with the Starter package.) Both options include delivery and setup, and a 12-month warranty. They do not include the $44/month All-Access subscription that you’ll need to take the platform’s famous video classes. Peloton bikes have also been on steep discounts lately during major sales events, going as low as $1,095 last Black Friday.

• Peloton Bike rentals run $119/month for the Bike+ (original Bike rentals are not currently available), plus a one-time $150 delivery and setup fee. The rental includes a pair of cycling shoes and the subscription fee for video content. There is also a warranty for the life of the subscription period.

• Peloton certified refurbished bikes are currently going for $1,145 for the Bike, and $1,995 for the Bike+. Both are a significant savings compared to paying full price, but more than a used Bike. Otherwise, the terms are the same as new bikes: The warranty and delivery fee are included; your All-Access subscription is not.

As you’d expect, used Bikes are cheaper than refurbished, and refurbished is cheaper than new. Where do rentals fall? We need to crunch some more numbers to see.

Is renting Peloton a better deal than buying new or used?

I considered a rental before I started shopping for used Bikes. If you don’t know whether you want a Peloton at all, or if you’re planning on a move soon, the rental might be worth it. Peloton will send someone to come pick up the Bike, for free, if you decide you don’t want it anymore. Rentals may be new or refurbished—Peloton sends you whatever it has, although it promises the machine will be in good condition, even if it has a few dings or scratches. There are options to rent both the Bike and Bike+. Below, I’ll discuss pricing for the regular Bike.

What you need to know about renting a Peloton

You have the option to buy your rental at any time, and the price varies based on how long you’ve been renting. If you decide to buy the Bike+ the moment it arrives, it will cost you $2,345. At that point you’ll have already paid the $150 delivery fee and probably your first month’s $119 rental fee, meaning the Bike will effectively cost $2,614—a little more than the full price of a brand-new Bike. (Remember that your rental Bike might be a new Bike, but it might also be a refurbished model, which sells for less.)

As time goes on, the deal stays about the same: After a year, the buyout price is just $1,995, but you’ll have already paid $1,578 in rental fees (including the delivery fee). That’s $3,573, but you’ve saved $44/month on the All-Access subscription all along. When you take that into account, you’ve paid the same amount, in total, as if the Bike had cost $3,045 in the first place. Not a good deal.

That means buying a brand-new Bike+ at full price is a better deal than renting, no matter when or whether you decide to buy out your Bike+. When I’d done these calculations in previous years (when the Bike was offered in the rental program), the costs were much closer. Now, the rental program is clearly the worse deal. I wouldn’t recommend renting now unless you know you won’t be using the Bike+ long term. If you’re planning to move soon, or simply expect to lose interest, the free pickup at the end of the rental term may be worth the extra cost.

Are used Peloton Bikes a good deal?

I ended up buying mine used, so I would say they definitely are. But it depends on a few factors.

The first thing to consider is resale price. When I was shopping for mine, $950 was an excellent deal compared to the new, rental, and refurbished prices. Since then, prices have dropped on the used market and sales on new Bikes have been occurring more often.

For the moment, at least, prices on used Pelotons are still high enough that you’ll be able to get a significant amount of your money back if you were to decide to sell your Bike or Bike+. That was a big part of my calculus: A used Peloton doesn’t depreciate instantly like a new car. That said, prices have been slowly falling. If I wanted to sell my $950 Bike now, I’d likely get $600 back at best.

Besides the price, though, you might want to consider two other factors that will affect how good a deal you’re getting if you buy used.

Used Bikes require a $95 activation fee

Yep, Peloton now charges you to buy a used Bike (or Bike+) from someone else. Used Pelotons are still a better deal than buying new, but make sure you’re budgeting for that activation fee. To soften the blow, Peloton will give you a $25 credit toward replacement parts, and a 50% off coupon for cycling shoes. (That said, Peloton brand cycling shoes aren’t the greatest; you may want to buy your own elsewhere.)

Used Bikes don’t come with a warranty

New and refurbished Pelotons come with a 12-month warranty that covers the touchscreen, parts (including pedals), and the labor to replace them. If something breaks, you just contact customer support and they’ll send somebody out to fix your Bike.

The warranty does not transfer to new owners. So even if the original owner has had the Bike for less than a year, you don’t get the benefits of the remaining time on the warranty. However, if the original owner purchased an extended protection plan—which can last up to four years in total—those are transferable. Only the original owner can buy this plan, and only within the first year they own the Bike; you can’t buy one yourself if you’re buying a used Bike. If you’re buying used and the owner is transferring a protection plan, make sure to get their order confirmation number, and don’t be surprised if the asking price is a bit higher than other used Bikes to account for the owner’s extra expense.

Without a warranty or protection plan, you’re on the hook for any repair costs, including labor. I had to replace the bearings on my Bike shortly after I got it, and I believe I paid Peloton around $45 to send me the part I needed. Fortunately, it was easy to install. On the other extreme, if something went wrong with the touchscreen, it would cost $375 to replace, labor not included.

Used Bikes may have wear and tear

A bike is a collection of moving parts, and if you love your Peloton, you’ll put a lot of miles on it. That means a lot of wear.

Peloton Bikes tend to be pretty sturdy, and indoor bikes don’t accumulate as much damage as something you’d ride outside. But it’s still worth considering when you might have to replace parts. If you’re buying a used bike, you’ll want to check these parts for wear:

• The pedals should be replaced every year, at least according to Peloton, though most Peloton owners don’t seem to bother. (They certainly seem to last a lot longer than that, but the company is probably keeping in mind its 2020 recall in response to pedals that broke, injuring some riders.)

• Speaking of recalls, the seat post on all Peloton bikes was recalled in 2023 because it could break. If you’re buying used, make sure the owner has installed the new post.

• The bearings in the center of the flywheel won’t last forever. You can expect them to endure roughly a year of regular use, although this will vary greatly. If a used Bike is a few years old and hasn’t had them replaced, that’s a repair that is probably due. When the bearings start to go, the Bike will still be functional, but it will make a rattling noise as you ride.

• Cosmetic damage may also be an issue. There could be dents or scratches on a used bike, worn areas on the handlebars, and so on. Refurbished Bikes may have minor cosmetic issues; all bets are off when it comes to a used Bike.

When is a Peloton Bike too old to bother with?

Peloton only has two models of bikes, which makes shopping easy. Both the original Bike and the Bike+ have a large touchscreen that plays videos of the workouts and shows you statistics about your ride.

The models haven’t changed much over the years, with one exception. The Generation 1 Bikes are no longer supported; the software in their touchscreens will no longer be updated. These Bikes have an orange power button at the top of the touchscreen and were manufactured before September 2016.

As long as the used Bike doesn’t have that older touchscreen, any model you buy used is going to be basically equivalent to what’s for sale now. Note that some of the Bikes in used listings may say “gen 1”, but as long as their touchscreen has the gray button on the back instead of the orange button on top, they’re fine.

Where to find used Peloton Bikes

There are plenty for sale on places like Facebook Marketplace and Craigslist, and there are also Peloton-related Facebook groups that allow members to post Bikes for sale. Check anywhere you would look for used items, like OfferUp and the local search options on Ebay.

As with any sale on these platforms, watch out for scams. When I was browsing listings to update this post, I found plenty of Bikes listed with a price of $129 and a description that glowingly praised the site where the seller had originally bought it. Yeah, that was just an ad for that site—which turned out not to sell Pelotons at all, but haha! Made you look! In any case, make sure you’re dealing with a real person, and don’t pay anything until you’ve seen the Bike in person and are sure you want to buy it.

What to ask the seller of a used Bike

When you’re looking at a specific used Bike, Peloton’s history tool (still in beta) may be able to tell you about the history of a Bike or Bike+ if you know the serial number. You’ll have to ask the seller for the number, and then cross your fingers and hope that it’s one of the Bikes included in the beta program. Besides that, here are some things to ask to make sure you’re getting a good deal.

Are you the original owner?

There’s nothing wrong with buying a Bike that has been through multiple owners, except that it’s harder to document where it actually came from. Peloton offers a history summary tool where you can look up a specific Bike or Bike+, but it still doesn’t support all serial numbers on it. (My own used Peloton keeps turning up a “not part of our beta program” message, nearly a year after it launched this feature.)

Peloton recommends you ask the owner to show you proof of the original purchase. It warns that rental Bikes aren’t supposed to be sold, and if you buy one, you won’t be able to activate a subscription on it. Make sure that the Bike is not a rental; there have been scams where a seller shows a buyer a purchase receipt, and then swaps in a rental when it’s time to pick your Bike up. Check that the serial numbers match.

This question can also kick off a conversation about why they are selling the bike, and how well it has worked for them over the years. Which brings us to…

How many rides has this Bike had?

There’s going to be a difference in wear-and-tear between a Bike that was ridden a few times versus a Bike that gets hours of use every day. You don’t need to know the exact number, but it can be good to get a sense of how much use the bike has seen.

The bike doesn’t come with an odometer, but you can ask when it was purchased and how many rides the owner has done on it. (Their Peloton profile will tell them how many rides they’ve done, but remember that they may also have family members who ride as well.) If the Bike you’re looking at show up on Peloton’s history tool, it should be able to give you this information as well.

Have any recalled parts been replaced?

Peloton Bikes’ seat posts (but not the Bike+) were recalled in 2023. Although the rollout was slow, everyone should have gotten their new ones by now. You can check whether the seat post is the newest type by looking at the bottom-most measuring line on the post.

While you’re at it, check whether the pedals have an orange Peloton logo. If so, they were part of the 2020 pedal recall and should have been replaced.

This is also a good time to ask about repairs, in general. Has anything broken, and if so, was it fixed and when? Does the Bike have any ongoing problems?

Can I ride it?

Hop on the bike (don’t worry about the shoes for now) and turn the pedals. Do they move smoothly, without clanking noises that might indicate bad bearings? Does the big red resistance knob turn smoothly from side to side? Does the screen have any chips or cracks?

Peloton also recommends checking that the adjustment levers and screws move smoothly, and that there aren’t any signs of over-tightening, like cracks. Check that the power cable is in good shape, and that the bike is clean and appears well-cared for.

How to move a Peloton

If you decide to take the Bike home with you, proceed carefully. These suckers are heavy, weighing about 140 pounds. Most of that weight is in the flywheel at the front, so be aware of that when carrying it with a partner.

Peloton has a guide to moving Bikes here. Importantly, you’ll want to remove the touchscreen first. I wrapped mine in towels and put it in the front seat of my car; the rest of the Bike went in the back. Peloton also recommends taking off the water bottle holders and the cage on the back that holds the dumbbells. Lower the handlebars and seat to their lowest position, and tighten all the adjustment levers so nothing moves in transit. I didn’t remove the pedals, but Peloton says you should.

How to transfer a Peloton to a new owner

Peloton recommends doing a factory reset on a Bike before it changes hands. Go to Settings > System > Factory Reset. When you set your Bike up at home, follow the prompts on the screen to register the Bike and set up your new subscription.

If you already have a subscription to the Peloton app, make sure to cancel it; that doesn’t always happen automatically.

What else you’ll need to buy to enjoy your Peloton

You’ll want cycling shoes. They don’t have to be Peloton brand (the standard Peloton shoes kind of suck, if I’m being honest), but they do need Delta LOOK cleats to fit the pedals. That said, you can replace the pedals with another type if you prefer. If you plan to ride a lot, padded cycling shorts are also a good idea.

Peloton’s cycling classes sometimes involve small handheld dumbbells; these should come with your bike. If you want to do the strength classes, though, you’ll want bigger dumbbells. Peloton makes its own branded dumbbells with square ends, but the workouts work just as well with any dumbbells you care to buy from the store.

You may want a mat to put under your Bike to protect your floor from dripping sweat. You’ll likely also want a towel, a water bottle, and maybe a heart rate chest strap to sync with the Bike (even my cheapo strap syncs just fine).

Spin instructor (and Lifehacker features editor, we’re so lucky) Lindsey Ellefson has a more complete guide here to the things you may want to pick up to make the most of your new Peloton.

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The Nintendo Switch 2 is the first Nintendo console to be a direct successor to a predecessor, number and all. Sure, everyone knew what “Super Nintendo” meant, but now more than ever, Nintendo is looking to competitors like Sony for cues, aiming for a simpler and more straightforward next-gen upgrade this time around. It makes sense—the Switch was its most successful home console yet, and when Nintendo tried to follow up the Wii with the more out-of-left-field Wii U, it flopped. So why mess with success?

But that strategy does leave the Switch 2 in a precarious position, especially given its hefty $450 price point (which, it turns out, might not even be final, as the company has delayed pre-orders to attempt to come up with a response to the US’ recent global tariffs, which could result in an ever higher sticker price). Is there really enough new here to justify an upgrade? After going hands-on, I’d say yes (at least until we know the final, post-tariff price), but with a disappointing caveat.

The Switch 2 is a lot like the Switch 1

The Nintendo Switch 2 console and a few selected accessories.
Credit: Michelle Ehrhardt

Unlike how the Wii or Nintendo DS changed how we played games, if you already have a Nintendo Switch, then you are mostly already familiar with the core experience of using the Switch 2. 

It’s still, essentially, a tablet with removable controllers that can optionally hook up to your TV to display on the big screen. There are a few new bells and whistles, but Nintendo hasn’t strayed far from that vision here.

It’s a good vision, but sticking to it means that listing the improvements here involves relying more on specs than the new experiences I’m used to with Nintendo products, and the results don’t exactly work out in Nintendo’s favor.

Once again, the company is using old hardware. Nintendo hasn’t been upfront about the chip the Switch 2 uses (although there are rumors that it’s already five years old), but to cut it short, there’s nothing here you haven’t already seen in competitors like the Steam Deck or, more charitably, the Lenovo Legion Go.

Starting with the good: The screen is now 1080p instead of 720p, and a roomy 7.9-inches—an increase from both the 6.2-inches on the original model and 7-inches on the OLED model. It can also support up to 120 fps, and when plugged into a dock, is theoretically capable of playing 4K games at 60 fps or lower-resolution games at 120 fps (this will vary based on the title, which I’ll get to later). There’s even ray-tracing, according to a roundtable I attended with the hardware designers, although I wasn’t able to confirm whether I saw it in action while I played.

The Nintendo Switch 2 boasts an improved kickstand.
Credit: Michelle Ehrhardt

There’s an extra USB-C port up top, too, which is convenient, plus a built-in microphone for the GameChat feature (which I didn’t get to demo, just like the GameShare feature). The kickstand has also been redesigned to be sturdier and allow more angles, and the dock has a fan that cools your console to help keep performance stable over long sessions. (I wasn’t able to hear it in person, which is good, but the event where I got to play the Switch was pretty loud.)

Perhaps the best improvements, though, are to the Joy-Cons. They now connect magnetically and feature larger thumbsticks and trigger buttons, plus more prominent SL and SR buttons, all of which makes them far more comfortable to use. I considered the original Switch Joy-Cons pretty much unusable, but with these, I actually wouldn’t feel much pressure to buy a Pro controller. Plus, they have a couple of new secrets, which I’ll discuss a little bit later.

The Nintendo Switch 2 has magnetic controllers.
Credit: Michelle Ehrhardt

As for the negatives, the Switch 2 is a little bigger and a little heavier than the Switch 1, although I wouldn’t have really noticed without putting the spec sheets side by side. The screen is also an LCD, which means owners of the Switch OLED might actually notice a bit of a downgrade here. It’s a tradeoff for cost and the increased size and frame rate, but it’s worth keeping in mind. Honestly, as much as I love OLED, I don’t actually mind this too much. The screen’s still plenty bright and colorful, and it’s small enough that I’m willing to accept the balancing act Nintendo is playing here. The company will almost certainly release an OLED version down the line, anyway.

Really, the device itself is plenty sleek, but it definitely reads as “more Switch” rather than “new Switch.” Just looking at the improvements on paper, I’m not sure there’s much reason to upgrade just for the new tech alone, which is concerning given that it’s the only real change that doesn’t rely on future developer support. Even if you’re a hardware nerd, the differences here aren’t as stark as they were between, say, the PS4 and the PS5. Rather, they more so just bring Nintendo in line with the competition, although perhaps still remaining a few years behind.

That means that, more than ever, it’s up to the games to sell the Switch 2.

But first, mouse controls!

You can play the Nintendo Switch 2 while using the Joy-Con 2 like a mouse.
Credit: Michelle Ehrhardt

But before I talk about those games, I do have to address the one big new feature here. While it’s not as flashy as motion controls on the Wii or the gamepad on the Wii U, the Switch 2 does have one new standout feature that other consoles don’t—mouse controls.

In theory, I love these. By simply turning a Joy-Con 2 on its side, you can suddenly slide it around and use it like a mouse. A cursor will show up in your game if it’s compatible, and suddenly, it’ll be like playing on a PC.

There are a few tradeoffs. The grip needed here is a bit more claw-like than I’m used to, and pressing the face buttons while the Joy-Con 2 is on its side can be pretty uncomfortable. But when I tested mouse controls in Civilization VII and, yes, Metroid Prime 4, they immediately felt like the natural way to play. I simply can’t go back.

This gives the Switch 2 a lot of potential, but it’s really up to developers to capitalize on it. It could become the de facto way to release shooters, RTS, or MOBA games on console going forward, which is a bit funny as those games tend to be more associated with older gamers and the Xbox. But it could also easily fall by the wayside as a tech demo, like in Drag X Drive, a game I tried that has you using both Joy-Con 2 as mice simultaneously to control a wheelchair. I’ll leave it to people who actually use wheelchairs to comment on the accuracy here, but it certainly was novel—and very tiring after just about five minutes.

The potential here has me excited, perhaps more than anything about this system. Competitive shooter players could potentially play out of their living room here. Heck, you could easily use this to enable more accurate DS or Wii U backwards compatibility. But with actually implementing these being left up to individual developers, I am still a bit skeptical for now. How many games actually used Wii MotionPlus, anyway?

Metroid Prime 4 makes the case for Switch 2

Metroid Prime 4 is improved for the Nintendo Switch 2
Credit: Michelle Ehrhardt

Easily, the game that sold me most on the Switch 2 was Metroid Prime 4, and I’m not even much of a Metroid Prime person. (I liked the first game well enough, but generally prefer the 2D titles.)

The game, however, was gorgeous, and played like a dream. Sitting down with it was one of the few moments where I thought “this wasn’t possible on Switch 1.” Funny, because the game is technically cross-gen.

Still, Nintendo made a point of saying that Metroid Prime 4 runs at 1080p/120 fps on the Switch 2, and while that’s fairly modest compared to what I’ve gotten used to on the console’s contemporaries, dang if it didn’t feel great to see that level of technical polish and fidelity combined with Nintendo’s trademark “show, don’t tell” design. And the fidelity actually serves a gameplay purpose here, too, as the increased frame rate makes keeping up with the action much easier.

And that’s without getting to the controls, which are certainly not possible on any other console. I’ve played prior Metroid Prime games with just a controller, and with the motion controls in their rereleases, but mouse controls are easily the best way to move Samus in 3D. Aiming for weak points on bosses is immediate and snappy, and being able to quickly jerk your mouse to a vantage point makes taking in the scenery, whether for scanning or just eye candy, a breeze.

All this does come with a bit of a risk, as a less skilled developer could easily lean too far into these improvements, and turn Metroid into what is essentially a Halo clone. But even in the brief demo I played, I noticed the same thoughtful level and encounter design I’d come to expect from the rest of the series (not to diss Master Chief too much).

If the Switch 2 needs a lawyer, Metroid Prime 4 should be it, because it makes a convincing case for the console, even if it’s still representing its older sibling too.

Mario Kart World and Donkey Kong Bananza feel like more of the same

Gliding is back in Mario Kart World
Credit: Michelle Ehrhardt

If Metroid Prime 4 feels like a game that needs the Switch 2, then the console’s other big first-party titles, or at least the ones I’ve played so far, land in more dangerous waters.

Put simply, Mario Kart World and Donkey Kong Bananza feel like games that could have released for the Switch 1. They’re both pretty, don’t get me wrong, but there’s nothing so novel about the gameplay here that requires a new console to power it. They use art styles that are pleasant, but so similar to what you’d find on the Switch 1 that I’m not sure the average person could pick them out from Mario Kart 8 or Super Mario Odyssey if you put them in a lineup.

Of these two games, Mario Kart World suffers more from this. Playing it was just like playing Mario Kart 8, for better and worse. The good: Mario Kart 8 is a good game! The bad: Mario Kart 8 is a good game.

Frankly, it feels like Mario Kart World has little reason to exist, and little reason to be exclusive to the Switch 2, except to sell the console. Its few new additions, being grinding, wall jumping, and a battle royale style multiplayer mode, are all things that could have been achieved without forcing players to spend at least $500 to get them, and are pretty easy to not even notice during play. Again, it’s “Mario Kart 8, but more,” and players would be just fine not swapping over to it.

Granted, there’s one elephant in the room with all of this, in that I didn’t get to try out the Forza Horizon style free roam mode much. This, I could have seen struggling on the original Switch. But I’m also skeptical how necessary it is. This could either be a full-blown map worthy of sinking hours into so you can find every detail, or a glorified lobby to drive around in while waiting for online matchmaking. But as for the core Mario Kart experience, it’s still strong but not a system seller, and not an appreciable improvement over what came before beyond some only very slightly better visuals.

Is it me, or does this Donkey Kong design look more like he did in the movie?
Credit: Michelle Ehrhardt

Donkey Kong Bananza, meanwhile, is the big 3D platformer holding up the Switch 2’s launch window (it’ll be available about a month after the console itself). Again, a lot of what I said about Mario Kart World holds true here. It looks good, but doesn’t exactly stand out from a good looking Switch 1 game. Mechanically, it’s also mostly something that doesn’t require the upgrade, so it could have been a Switch 1 game if Nintendo really wanted.

That is, except for the destructible environments. Donkey Kong is recast as a bit of a miner in this game, and you can pretty much tear the whole map apart, polygon by polygon, with debris flying everywhere. I’m convinced that if you made enough compromises to the visuals, this could have worked on Switch 1, but still, it is noteworthy that Bananza is both very pretty and never chugged while I was playing.

Still, and this hurts to say as a fan of Donkey Kong, Bananza is kind of a chore to play. Maybe it’ll get better further into the game, but Donkey Kong’s first 3D platformer since the Nintendo 64 weirdly falls into the same trap that game did: too many collectibles.

Because you can tear the whole map apart polygon by polygon, and because almost every one of those polygons reveals a reward, it makes maintaining the same kind of flow state that Super Mario Odyssey, a game the Bananza is taking clear influence from, so heavily encouraged near impossible. Rather than focusing on fluid movement through an obstacle course, you’re instead incentivized to smash and destroy nearly every part of the map, making worlds a bit of a slog to actually get through as you slowly pick them apart.

Or you could accept that you don’t have to get absolutely everything, if you don’t suffer from the same kind of optimization sickness I do. It is fun to simply play as Donkey Kong, but even in that case, I feel the game could be better designed to support this, since the courses here do seem to be laid out more for Mario than DK. A less linear design might support the penchant to go ape more, but to be fair, I only saw the first world.

Third party games are a mixed bag

Nintendo has a few more first party Switch 2 games announced for later on, although I didn’t get to play tantalizing titles like Kirby Air Riders yet. Instead my pre-release experience with the Switch 2 was rounded out by third-party developers.

The games I tried were, sadly, the biggest reason I remain skeptical of the Switch 2. From Cyberpunk 2077 to Street Fighter 6, it was a grab bag of quality. Given how old most of these games are, and that they all run well on devices like the Steam Deck, that really shouldn’t be the case.

Case in point: Cyberpunk is just flat out ugly on the Switch 2. It’s pixelated, the frame rate dips constantly, and I found myself frequently disoriented in combat. It’s clearly an example of the Switch 2 reaching above it means, which goes to show that while the system is prettier than its predecessor, it’s not the fix for the typical Nintendo performance issues some were hoping for.

To be fair to Cyberpunk, the build I played was only seven weeks old, and I didn’t seem able to swap out of quality mode and into performance mode despite trying, but it puts a pretty clear cap on this system’s performance at about the PS4 level. That is impressive for a handheld, but it’s also something we previously saw with the cheaper and older Steam Deck. If the Switch 2 sticks around for as long as the Switch 1 did, it could also start to feel long-in-the-tooth pretty quick, as other companies are already on the verge of leaving that era behind.

Civilization VII also chugged a little bit, although this was less of an issue given its turn-based nature. But on the plus side, Street Fighter 6 and Yakuza 0 Director’s Cut ran without hiccups and at high-enough resolutions. The latter should be expected given that game’s age, but as for the former, it’s nice to know that Capcom knows how to work with Nintendo’s hardware. Even so, Street Fighter was still noticeably pixelated at times, so it’s not like the Switch 2 is the best way to play Street Fighter 6. It’s just the best way to play it if you don’t own any other modern gaming machines.

That’s an improvement on the Switch 1, and might be enough for now. But given Cyberpunk’s performance, even knowing how demanding that game famously was at launch, I do worry that it won’t be long until the Switch 2 falls into the same trap as its predecessor: Third party developers will either skip the console entirely (I was hoping Monster Hunter Wilds would be here, given that series’ history with Nintendo platforms, but it’s MIA for now), or their games will be more and more compromised here as time moves on.

The best games on the Switch 2 are Switch 1 (and GameCube) games

Breath of the Wild’s Switch 2 Edition is buttery smooth
Credit: Michelle Ehrhardt

Which brings me to maybe my saddest realization of my time with the Switch 2. The games I enjoyed playing most on Nintendo’s new console are all games for the Switch 1.

Breath of the Wild. Kirby and the Forgotten Land. Metroid Prime 4. Even Mario Party Jamboree. All of these run flawlessly on the Switch 2, at high resolutions and even higher frame rates. It’s really such a breath of fresh air, especially given that some of Nintendo’s more ambitious Switch 1 games didn’t always perform the best on that system. (I didn’t get to play Tears of the Kingdom, but it is planned for a Switch 2 upgrade, and it sorely needs it.)

In a vacuum, this is eye-opening. One of Nintendo’s strongest game libraries, now with no technical chains around its ankles. But it also comes with three of the Switch 2’s strongest downsides.

The first, and most obvious, is that a Switch 1 game does not make for a good Switch 2 killer app. Even Metroid Prime 4, the game I praised as being the best reason to get a Switch 2, will still technically be playable on the Switch 1. And that means that thrifty gamers are plenty likely to just live with not having mouse controls, or with occasional frame drops, since they can still get the same core experience without spending hundreds of dollars for it.

The second, and most obnoxious, is that you have to pay to get these improvements. Even if you already own Kirby and the Forgotten Land for Switch, and you buy a Switch 2 for $450 (or more), you’ll need to pay once again for the Nintendo Switch 2 Enhanced Edition version of the game to play it using the power the Switch 2 already has. Otherwise, you’re going to get a similar experience as you would on the Switch 1, barring some potential slight improvements like marginally faster loading times. To Nintendo’s credit, you can upgrade your existing Switch 1 library for a smaller fee than you’d have buying the new version outright, but it’s still a hard pill to swallow. “It plays your existing Switch games, but better” would have been a reason to buy here, especially if the launch lineup doesn’t do anything for you, but alas.

Third, it’s not guaranteed that the Switch 2 will play your existing Switch games at all. According to Nintendo’s hardware developers, the new console does not contain any Switch 1 components in it, which means that it plays the non-enhanced versions of Switch 1 games using emulation. This isn’t an immediate killing blow, and Microsoft is in fact fairly well respected for how it handles a similar approach on the Xbox. But it does mean that Nintendo has found issues with running over 120 games on the Switch 2, some of which have difficulty even starting up. Out the gate, the Switch 2 is going to take some time to be an appropriate Switch 1 replacement, as Nintendo goes through all 10,000+ Switch titles “one by one” to ensure they work on the new console. Don’t throw away your old Switch quite yet.

The GameCube controller for the Nintendo Switch 2
Credit: Michelle Ehrhardt

There is one bright spot to Switch 2 emulation, though: GameCube support. Starting with The Legend of Zelda: The Wind Waker, F-Zero GX, and Soul Calibur II, Nintendo is going to start adding GameCube games to the Nintendo Switch Online + Expansion Pack plan, exclusively playable on Switch 2 (and compatible with an optional GameCube style controller, sold separately exclusive to Switch Online members). Wind Waker was flawless for me in my hands-on, and suspending and resuming was instant. $50 a year is a lot to pay for such a small selection of titles, especially when there are, ahem, other ways to get them, but it is convenient. And hey, as a bonus, the Expansion Pack membership does at least include the Switch 2 Edition upgrades for Breath of the Wild and Tears of the Kingdom.

The Switch 2 is boring, and that’s OK

So where does all this leave the Switch 2? Well, truthfully, it’s not as grim as I’ve made it sound.

At its core, the Switch 2 is a polished piece of hardware with a good deal of quality-of-life improvements and one new control gimmick (one I really like, but am unsure of whether it’ll catch on). It doesn’t push the hardware envelope, and like the GameCube or Wii U (eventually), it relies on its games to sell it. And before I learned that it was $450 (or, again, potentially more down the line, while still being the equivalent of $343 in Japan), this article was originally much kinder to it.

But with that price point, which will end up being at least $150 higher than the original Switch’s price at launch, higher than a Steam Deck, and on par with Sony’s entry-level PS5, I have no choice but to get a bit choosier. It isn’t necessarily a problem, but it means I have to give this the same boring advice I would give almost any console launch, rather than the advice I would have normally given for a prior Nintendo launch.

Unless your banana hoard is overflowing, or if you absolutely need the new Mario Kart on day one, or if you can’t accept any compromise when you don Samus Aran’s helmet, you should wait to buy the Nintendo Switch 2. There simply aren’t enough compelling reasons to upgrade right now, and given that Switch 1 support is either paid or prone to glitching, I doubt there will be for a good while. Wait for a sale (or at least until the exclusive FromSoft game comes out).

That’s fine. That’s what I’ll probably say for the PS6, and it was probably the right move for Nintendo. The Wii U famously failed for throwing aside the strengths of its predecessor, so it makes sense for the Switch 2 to aim for “Switch but more,” and the only way to do that while staying anywhere in a family console’s budget in the age of tariffs is to do roughly the same thing again, but with some slight improvements.

But it is still a slight disappointment. For something like the original Switch, I actually would have been fine recommending buying it at launch. It was novel and it was affordable, so you didn’t lose out on much by going for it right away. Now, though, it seems even the Nintendo can’t avoid the homogenization stomping all over the rest of the tech industry. Every phone is a candy bar now, and increasingly, every gaming console is just a featureless black box.

Update 04/04/2025: Addressed Nintendo’s announcement that it is delaying Switch 2 pre-orders to respond to the United States’ recent global tariffs, which could see the price raise.