I Finally Found a Good Retro-Style Music Visualizer App

Every once in a while a seemingly pointless computing question of mine becomes an obsession. This week, that question is, “Whatever happened to music visualizers? And can I still use one?”

In the 2000s, one of the coolest things you could do on a computer was turn on some music, enable the visualizer—a kind of psychedelic-inspired animation that would react to the music—and space out. These days, though? Well, Apple Music still has the visualizer offered by iTunes back in the day—just click Window > Visualizer in the menu bar to bring it up. But Apple is alone on this. Spotify, the most popular streaming service, doesn’t have any kind of visualizer—just a full-screen view with a photo of the artist. Amazon Music and YouTube Music don’t have anything, either.

You might think this is where where my research should have stopped. You’re wrong. We had something amazing and we lost it. That’s unacceptable. This missing feature stuck in my head to the point of obsession, prompting untold numbers of searches while I should have been working on something else.


Credit: Justin Pot

Eventually I found the unfortunately named MilkyMilky, a free application for Windows, Mac, and Linux that brings back the famous Milkdrop visualizer that Winamp was famous for. Even better: it works with any audio on your computer, meaning any application that makes sound is supported.

To get started, download the application and launch it. The visualizer will start immediately, though there will be a pop-up explaining the keyboard shortcuts offered.


Credit: Justin Pot

You can use the arrow keys to switch between different animations. You can also open the settings by pressing Ctrl+S. From here, you can set which audio source to use and fine tune the graphics a little bit. You can even change the audio source to your microphone, if you want; sing or play an instrument and the visualizer will react.

There’s a bit of a catch for Mac users, mostly related to the permissions—macOS doesn’t allow applications to monitor currently playing audio. MilkyMilky works around this by using your microphone, which isn’t exactly ideal, but it works. You can work around this using an application called Loopback, which can turn your system audio into a virtual microphone. (It’s up to you to decide whether that’s overkill just to use Milkdrop.)

This tool works best with songs that have a really well defined rhythm or bass line, so that you can see the moment of impact on each beat. It’s also ideally something a little bit trippy. I’ve been enjoying putting on Magdalena Bay’s most recent album—it fits extremely well. If your tastes are less modern, though, you probably can’t go wrong with Pink Floyd.

I’ve had a lot of fun leaving this on in the background during work days and I hope you enjoy it, too. Mostly I’m glad I can stop obsessively researching this.

Add This Surprising ‘Palate Cleanser’ to Your Thanksgiving Spread

I host a full Friendsgiving meal in early November because it’s truly heartwarming to bring my chosen family all together for a home cooked meal—but low-key. I also need to test side dishes to share with you all. This year, the most surprising dish I made wasn’t squash, or another spin on sweet potatoes, but a resurrection of summer fruit. I made a warm roasted tomato salad, and I think it may have earned its spot at the table forever. 

I think we can all acknowledge that the Thanksgiving meal is primarily a parade of luscious fats, umami, salt, and carbs. I have no issues with this. However, repetition of the same flavors can cause something called palate fatigue (often a term used in wine tasting): Nuanced flavors become harder to detect because your taste buds are exhausted. Including an acidic dish, like tomatoes, creates opposition, gives you the feeling of a “palate cleanser,” essentially kicking your buds back into gear.  

Revive cold-weather tomatoes

Yes, you could serve a raw tomato salad to access the fruit’s bright acidity, but fall and winter tomatoes have a diminished flavor compared to the peak season ones we saw a few months ago. My guess is that’s why we don’t see them a ton on Thanksgiving tables. Luckily, a quick trip to the oven can change all that. 

Roasting dull winter tomatoes evaporates some of their water, thus concentrating their flavors, and it browns the bottoms, exhibiting the maillard reaction and caramelization of the natural sugars. That’s my long way of saying: Roasted tomatoes will have much more flavor than raw tomatoes in fall. Plus, it couldn’t be easier.

How to make a warm roasted tomato salad

I like plum tomatoes for this, but Campari tomatoes work too. I prefer these varieties because of their medium size, and they happen to soften nicely. Using my air fryer secret for roasting, sprinkle some salt into a bowl with the tomatoes. Then drizzle a teaspoon of oil into one palm. Rub your palms together and then rub each tomato with your oily hands. The salt will naturally get picked up. Place the tomatoes, either whole or halved, on an unlined baking sheet. Unlined baking sheets will give your tomatoes more color. 

Roast the tomatoes at 375°F for about 30 minutes, or—if they’re whole—until they’ve just burst slightly. If they’re halved, they’re done when the bottoms have some browning. (You can place halved tomatoes either cut-side down or skin-side down, but I’ve found that cut-side down is more prone to sticking.) Plating this dish is flexible, and there’s almost no way to screw it up. Carefully scoop the tomatoes onto a serving dish, and place hunks of burrata or fresh mozzarella in between the burst tomatoes. If you don’t like soft cheese, you can shave large sheets of Pecorino Romano over the top instead. 

Drizzle it all with some finishing olive oil, and a sprinkle of (fill in the blank): This is really where you can make the dish your own. I used dry Calabrian chili flakes this year. Perhaps you’d scatter chopped fresh basil over the top. Maybe chopped salted pistachios and za’atar are more your vibe. If you have garlic confit, you know what to do. But even if you skip the final garnish, you must crush some flaky salt over the top. 

The dish will look simple but tantalizing nonetheless. I actually prefer making dishes that have easily identifiable ingredients so I don’t have to field as many questions. You don’t need a ton—maybe one or two tomatoes per guest—to supply an acidic intermission halfway through the first helping. 

Warm Roasted Tomato Salad

Ingredients:

  • 8-14 Campari tomatoes

  • Neutral cooking oil to coat

  • ½ teaspoon salt

  • 1 ball burrata cheese (or fresh mozzarella)

  • A drizzle extra virgin olive oil

  • A sprinkle flaky salt

  • Chopped basil, pistachios, chili flakes, or other garnish (optional)

1. Preheat the oven to 375°F. 

2. Put the tomatoes in a bowl and sprinkle the ½ teaspoon of salt over top. Drizzle a small amount of oil into your palms; it should be enough to coat the tomatoes. Rub your palms together and then rub all of the tomatoes, rolling them around to pick up the salt. Place the tomatoes on an unlined baking sheet, drizzle with any excess oil, and roast them for about 30 minutes or until they just begin to crack and burst. Cool them for a few minutes.

3. Put the tomatoes on a serving platter. Rip the burrata into six or seven hunks and dot the dish with the cheese. Drizzle the dish with a bit of olive oil and a sprinkle of flaky salt and any additional garnish you like. Serve warm. 

YouTube Music Is Already Rolling Out Its Version of Spotify Wrapped

Spotify might have pioneered the yearly streaming recap, but these days, every other service has its own version of “Wrapped.” If you’re a YouTube Music subscriber, for instance, not only do you have the option to check out a year-end summary of your listening habits, those stats are rolling out to select users now.

While you might think December would be a better time to start recapping the past year of music activity, YouTube wants some of us to go back in time right now. It’s not that weird for YouTube in particular, since its music streaming service offers seasonal recaps throughout the year. However, as Mashable highlights, the feature isn’t rolling out for all users yet, so don’t be bummed if you have to wait a bit longer for your summary.

If it is working on your end, here’s what you can expect. You’ll see the standard stats, such as your top tracks, artists, and podcasts, complete with listening time for each. But you’ll also see some more abstract results, as well. YouTube Music will let you know what your “listening vibes” were this year, including genres like “Electronic,” to moods like “Hyped” or “Pumped up.” You’ll also see your “music character,” which breaks down the “personality” of the types of music you listened to this year, as well as your “musical moods,” which can include anything from “Dramatic” to “Dancey.”

How to access your YouTube Music recap

As the feature is actively rolling out, you may open your YouTube Music app on your iPhone or Android and see a “2024 Recap is here” alert, above the new “Speed Dial” section. If you don’t see the alert, you can try looking for your recap yourself: Tap your profile, then choose Your Recap. From here, you can tap Get your Recap to, well, get your recap. You can also try heading directly to yt.be/music/recap to see if that will force YouTube Music to show you your recap.

You Might Want to Wait Until Next Year to Buy an iPhone

Thinking about getting a new iPhone? You certainly have options: Apple’s latest generation of smartphones, the iPhone 16 series, offers four different models, each with their own plusses and minuses. If you’re not set on having the latest and greatest, you could consider last year’s iPhone 15, or even 2022’s iPhone 14. They’re all great.

However, there’s one iPhone here that stands out from the rest: the iPhone SE. Unlike every other iPhone Apple currently sells, this one has a Home button. In fact, the phone looks nearly identical to the iPhone 8 Apple released back in 2017, which itself borrows the design from 2014’s iPhone 6. That means it has a smaller, lower quality display than many might be used to these days, a single camera that isn’t as capable as newer iPhones, and poor battery life for its size. In short, the current SE is a bit of a black sheep, and is probably not the iPhone I’d recommend you buy in 2024—even if it only costs $429.

That price is the main selling point of the SE brand, especially when this particular model launched back in 2022. Apple takes the design from the last generation (in this case, the iPhone 8 style), packs a modern chip inside, and slashes the MSRP. In effect, you get an iPhone that can keep up with the performance of the flagship Apple phones, but at half the cost, if not more. Sure, the cameras aren’t as good, and the device looks a bit dated, but again, you get a lot of iPhone for the price.

To be frank, if you’re eyeing a mid-range device at a good price, I wouldn’t recommend buying an iPhone at all right now. If you can wait until spring, Apple might just have exactly what you’re looking for in a brand-new SE.

2025 could be the year of the SE

As reported by MacRumors, analysts have confirmed Apple is working on a fourth-generation iPhone SE. The only “confirmed” spec from this report is an Apple-made 5G modem. If true, it would be the first iPhone with a non-Qualcomm 5G modem, but it’s not clear whether that would mean any performance gains or other positive changes for customers. Analysts say the SE is set to launch at the end of Q1 2025, which might track with a rumored March announcement. Apple unveiled the SE 3 in March 2022, so it’d be consistent.

According to the rumors, we’ll see an iPhone SE 4 with some decent specs. MacRumors says the SE could have a 6.1-inch OLED display with Face ID, an upgraded A-series chip (though it’s not certain which chip Apple would use), USB-C, a 48 MP rear camera, 8GB of RAM, and this new 5G modem. That extra RAM would allow the SE 4 to run Apple Intelligence, which is obviously important to Apple, but perhaps not to anyone who has already turned it off.

If those features come to pass, this would be quite the upgrade over the current iPhone SE. The SE 3 is rocking a 4.7-inch 750p LCD, a much smaller and lower resolution display than what’s rumored. It uses the A15 Bionic chip, which is still powerful enough in 2024 (it’s the same chip used in the iPhone 14), has a Lightning port, a 12 MP rear camera, 4GB of RAM, and, of course, a Qualcomm 5G modem.

The SE always borrows from the previous generation of iPhone, and right now, that’s likely the iPhone 14. You probably won’t be able to tell an SE from the 14 at first glance, but based on these rumors, the new SE would have some edge over the iPhone 14: The 14 has 12 MP rear cameras, 6GB of RAM, a Lightning port, and doesn’t support Apple Intelligence, all of which the rumored SE improves upon. And while the 14’s A15 Bionic chip is plenty powerful for iOS 18, the SE 4 will undoubtedly come with a newer A-series chip. The A15 was the newest iPhone chip at the time when the SE 3 came out: If Apple continues the trend, the SE 4 could get the iPhone 16’s A18 chip. Even the 15 Pro’s A17 chip would be quite the upgrade.

Will Apple keep the price low?

Of course, the value of a rumored SE all hinges on the price. Ideally, Apple would keep the same $429 price point for the SE 4—which, itself, was a hike from the $399 starting price for past SE models. These rumors point to a excellent all-around iPhone that omits certain modern or “Pro” features like a Camera button, Action button, zoom lens, titanium build, 120Hz ProMotion display, Always-On display, Dynamic Island, and a brightness maximum of 2,000 nits. Hopefully, scrapping these features most users don’t want or need can motivate Apple to price the SE accordingly. As of this writing, rumors don’t suggest what Apple will do, one way or another.

At the end of the day, most people looking to buy an iPhone want something that can handle iMessage and FaceTime, run their favorite apps, and take great photos and videos. The SE traditionally handles these tasks without issue, so if the fourth-generation iPhone SE does indeed deliver on these rumors, and is priced appropriately, it might be the best iPhone for most of us.

Strava’s API Changes Could Kill a Lot of Great Training Apps

Strava announced this week that going forward, it’s restricting API access for some third-party apps. Although they’re careful to say that the change will cause “no impact to most developers,” many runners and cyclists are discovering that the change is, in fact, likely to kill features, and possibly entire apps, they’ve been depending on.

Here’s the breakdown on what you can expect. 

What is Strava again? 

Strava is an app used by runners and cyclists to track their training data, compete with other runners or cyclists on leaderboards, and draw maps based on where they and other Strava users like to run and cycle. I’ve crowned it the best running app out there, but also reported on privacy concerns inherent in its mapping tools.

Aside from these baked-in features, Strava is also popularly used to glue other apps together. All of your fitness trackers (and their associated apps) can probably sync to Strava, and a lot of coaching and analysis apps can pull data from Strava in turn.

What is Strava changing with their new data policy? 

According to the announcement on Strava’s website, third-party apps that use Strava data may now only display a user’s own data, not anybody else’s. This means it’s fine for your Oura app to pull the time and distance of your latest run from your Oura Ring, but apps that aggregate multiple users’ data (for example, to build their own heatmaps or let coaches check on their athletes’ progress) will no longer be allowed. 

Strava says, “Specifically, we want to thoughtfully address situations where users connect to a third-party app and are unaware that their data is being surfaced not just for their own use and visibility, but also to other users (for example, in a public feed or heatmap).” 

The changes to the API terms also prohibit third-party developers from training AI on Strava data and seek to “protect Strava’s unique look and feel and functionality,” which seems to mean they are pulling certain features from their API so that third party apps can’t boast to have all the same features as the Strava app. 

Which apps will be affected? 

Tons of apps pull Strava data, and their developers have only just learned about the API changes, so I can’t give a complete list of affected apps just yet. Strava predicts that “less than 0.1% of applications” will be impacted, but if any of those are among the most popular fitness tracking apps, lots of users will be affected.

So here’s a little bit about what we do know: Coaching apps will be affected, since those apps have been pulling one user’s data (the athlete’s) to serve to another user (the coach). The developer of intervals.icu, one popular app for analysis and coaching, is urging athletes and coaches to change their app settings so their data goes directly to intervals.icu instead of going through Strava. 

That’s a workaround that isn’t possible for everybody, though. The reason Strava was so popular for coaching and analysis apps is that there are tons of gadgets and devices that record workout data, from smartwatches to bike power meters. It’s impractical for small app developers to write code for every device a user might use, but easy for them to pull data from Strava.

So if you use Garmin devices and your favorite app can connect to Garmin, great. But if not, you may not be able to use those apps anymore. (That intervals.icu developer, for example, is hard at work getting Zwift integration up and running.) 

The changes may also block any kind of analysis by third-party apps. According to DC Rainmaker’s reading of the new API terms, even simple calculations like “how many miles did I run this week?” could run afoul of the modified API agreement. 

What you can do about this

Right now, if you use any apps that pull data from Strava, go to their associated website (or check your email) and see whether their developers have said anything about how they’ll handle things, given the Strava changes. You may be able to link your data directly, as in the Garmin and Zwift examples above, but that will depend on your particular devices, what apps you use, and what data you expect to see there. This complexity is exactly what using Strava as a data bridge was supposed to solve! Sadly, those days are apparently over. 

I find it ironic that Strava is positioning this change as an important one for users’ privacy. While Strava’s privacy controls are complicated enough that people definitely could be sharing more information than they realize, that’s also true within Strava itself, and the company hasn’t done much to correct that issue. 

As I’ve previously written, Strava’s “de-identified” data is still specific enough to doxx some individuals based on their running habits. When I asked the company to comment on that issue, they answered, “Public heatmaps (whether Weekly or Night) use only aggregated de-identified data—no personal information. Strava has a number of privacy settings in place to empower users to design their experience on our platform, including the ability to opt out of contributing to the Global Heatmap. We are committed to evolving these experiences with privacy at the forefront.”

But when your running route itself is what identifies you, stripping identifiers from running (or cycling) data doesn’t always truly anonymize it. And since only Premium users have access to Strava’s most precise mapping tools, free users can’t necessarily see how their data is being used. It seems Strava only recognizes these privacy issues when they’re happening on third-party websites, and it won’t fix the same problem when it’s happening in-house. (If any of this is concerning, you may want to check your privacy settings.)

You No Longer Need a PS5 to Play Games on the PlayStation Portal

The PlayStation Portal, Sony’s latest crack at a gaming handheld, disappointed fans of the PSP and PS Vita when it hit store shelves last year, requiring owners to stream games from a PS5 console rather than being able to play games on its own. Now, it’s getting a little more standalone with a feature that everyone has been asking for—the ability to stream compatible games from the cloud. Sony announced that an upcoming system update will allow the PS Portal to stream games without the help of a console, and while it’s still not quite a dedicated portable gaming machine, the update does make it more of its own thing— potentially, you could even get it instead of a PS5, assuming you don’t mind cloud gaming and a somewhat smaller library. You’ll need a PlayStation Plus Premium subscription for this to work, and thanks to a beta, you’ll be able to try it later today.

Why the PS Portal’s cloud streaming feature is a big deal

The PS Portal is a $200 accessory that’s basically a DualSense controller with a screen. Up until now, it had a few limitations that made it a hard sell for many. It allowed you to remotely play games you already had installed on your PS5, but you couldn’t do much else, and you couldn’t use the Portal if you didn’t already own a PS5.

With the planned update, your PS Portal will finally be able to stream games off the cloud. Your gameplay will no longer depend on the strength of the internet connection where your PS5 is located, or the available free space on your PS5.

How to stream PS5 games from the cloud on the PS Portal


Credit: Sony

Before you can start cloud gaming on your PS Portal, you’ll need the following:

  • A PlayStation Portal

  • A PSN account with an active PS Plus Premium membership (costs $17.99/mo or $159.99/year)

  • An internet connection with a minimum of 5Mbps upload and download speeds (Sony recommends 7Mbps for 720p streaming and 13Mbps for 1080p)

To get started, you’ll need to update your PS Portal’s system software. Sony says the update will start rolling out today (Europeans will have to wait until Wednesday), so if you don’t see it, wait a little bit and try again. To update your device’s system software, follow these steps:

  • From the top right of your PS Portal’s home screen, swipe left to see the Quick Menu.

  • Navigate to Settings > System > System Software

  • Select Update System Software

With that, you can finally start playing your games by enabling the Cloud Streaming beta:

  • Open the Quick Menu again and navigate to Settings.

  • Select Cloud Streaming (Beta).

  • Turn on the Cloud Streaming (Beta) toggle, which is off by default.

  • Back on your PS Portal’s home screen, you should now see an option to access compatible games using Sony’s cloud streaming service.

This software update also introduces a lower minimum volume, Sony says. The cloud streaming beta will be available in regions where PS Plus Premium is available. The full list includes Austria, Belgium, Bulgaria, Canada, Croatia, Czech Republic, Denmark, Finland, France, Germany, Greece, Hungary, Ireland, Italy, Japan, Luxembourg, Malta, Netherlands, Norway, Poland, Portugal, Republic of Cyprus, Romania, Slovakia, Slovenia, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, United Kingdom, and United States.

The PS Portal will not be able to stream PS4 or PS3 games, but PS5 games are supported, Sony says. The company adds that the PS Portal will not initially support certain features, including game trials, party voice chat, the Create button, 3D audio, and in-game transactions, but that these could be added at a later date.

My Favorite Early Black Friday Deals From Home Depot

Black Friday is no longer a single-day sale on the Friday after Thanksgiving. It’s one of the biggest sales of the year that starts as early as October for some retailers—and you need to come with a plan unless you want to be taken advantage of. Home Depot is one of the main retailers who started their early Black Friday sale both online and in-store, which runs until Dec. 4. You’ll find BOGO deals and discounts on tools, appliances, smart home gadgets, and everything else you can find in the store. Here are the best early Black Friday deals from Home Depot.

This leaf blower is 55% off

If you’ve never had the absolute pleasure of blowing away all those dead leaves covering your yard with a leaf blower, you’re missing out on one of the biggest joys of the fall. Your neighbors shouldn’t have all the fun: This cordless Milwaukee leaf blower is $199 (originally $438) and comes with two chargers, which is all you can ask for in a cordless leaf blower. The first battery lasts 30 minutes at 3/4 power and the second one lasts 20 minutes at the same setting.

The Yale Assure Lock 2 Smart Door Lock is 31% off

I’ve been using the Yale Assure Lock 2 for my home for months and it’s one of my favorite smart locks of 2024. This is the Bluetooth version with the touchscreen (as opposed to physical buttons) and with a physical key option. You can always buy the Yale Wi-Fi Smart Module separately later if you don’t want to get the wifi version right now (it lets you control it remotely through wifi). This is the cheapest I have seen the smart lock even on Amazon, according to price-tracking tools.

This 22-foot retractable ladder is 38% off

I bought this ladder not too long ago, and it’s everything I was looking for—and more. It’s highly adaptable to many different scenarios thanks to the many different positions it can take. I was able to knock out many projects I had pending, and this retractable Gorilla ladder made it easy to knock them out. It has a bucket to carry all your tools, and when you have it compact, it is easy to stow away. Make sure whatever you need to do is within 22 feet (it actually reaches 18 feet, 10 inches max, but it takes into account an average adult’s reach to get to the full 22 feet). You can get this 22-foot Gorilla Retractable Ladder for $149 (originally $2339).

Get this Husky Tool Storage for 25% off

I am an organization freak, so I love tool cabinets. This type of cabinet is perfect for a person who likes to DIY home projects and has their tools scattered everywhere in a sad closet that could also use a workbench to do some work. It has 9 drawers and comes with six outlets and two USB ports. You can get this Husky Tool Cabinet for $298 (originally $398), the lowest price it has been over the last few months, according to price-tracking tools.

BOGOs and other deals

If you need multiple tools, Home Depot is offering BOGO cordless tool deals that you can take advantage of right now. Here are some other deals to check out:

Microsoft Is Introducing a Bunch of New ‘AI Agents’ in Office

Weeks after making its Copilot AI features free for Microsoft 365 (the successor to Office), subscribers in certain parts of Asia and Oceania (perhaps a precursor of things to come around the world), Microsoft announced at its Ignite conference today that it’s now vastly expanding what Copilot and AI can do in its office apps.

The juiciest of the new features center around new “AI Agents,” essentially pitched as set-it-and-forget-it virtual coworkers who can help collaborate on and automate repetitive tasks. These could be anything from drafting up summaries of Teams meetings, helping answer IT questions, or even planning and assigning projects. While this isn’t Microsoft’s first go at AI Agents, with previous releases being more aimed at sales and finance, it drastically increases what they can do within Microsoft 365.

If that all sounds a little enterprise focused, Microsoft’s AI can also now use Copilot Actions, which are similar to AI Agents but considered separate, to help on an individual level. For instance, Copilot will soon be able to translate entire PowerPoint presentations across 40 different languages. Alternatively, upcoming versions of Excel will begin suggesting AI-baked templates to help you get started on a presentation.

Not all of the agents Microsoft discussed today are available yet. One of the AI agents, a real-time Teams translator bot called Interpreter, is slated for next year. Microsoft will be adding available agents to Copilot Studio, currently an extra $200 charge on top of Microsoft 365, as they are ready, with a library for downloading agents currently in public preview. Developers are also able to create their own agents for 365, too, via an SDK that’s also now in public preview.

As for Copilot Actions, these are currently in private preview and will seemingly be available for everyone with a Microsoft 365 Copilot subscription (although Microsoft is mostly talking about them in an enterprise context). They are currently an extra $30 on top of the base Microsoft 365 subscription, assuming you don’t live in one of the areas that just got access to Copilot in 365 for free.

It’s likely, given Microsoft’s experiments with making Copilot free in Office in other markets, that pricing is set to change in the future, with AI simply becoming an expected fact of life within our productivity software as it gets cheaper to make. “Copilot will empower every employee to do their best work in less time, and focus on more meaningful tasks,” Microsoft says. At the same time, it’s not hard to see how having a bot that can assign tasks or answer benefits questions might make it easier for a company to save some cents on salaries, or at least expect more out of the project managers and HR representatives they do keep around.

All the Different Bars at the Gym, Explained

The first step in lifting a barbell is loading weight plates onto the bar. At some gyms, there’s only one type of bar, and it weighs 45 pounds, and that’s all you need to know. But that’s not the only type out there, and if your gym has different bars of different shapes and weights, it’s possible to get confused.

Check end of the bar first

If you’re wondering about what kind of bar you’re looking at or what it weighs, always check the end of it. Sometimes you’ll find a label with a brand name, a description of what the bar is, and its weight. For example, this one has a little endcap that says “The Rogue Ohio Deadlift Bar. 27mm. 20kg.” Now you know that it weighs 44 pounds (20kg) and that it’s got a 27mm wide handle, just over an inch, which is slightly thinner than a typical power bar. Great! Problem solved.

But on many bars, all you’ll see at the end is a rusty bolt. If the bar is seven feet long, it probably weighs 44 or 45 pounds. If you’re suspicious, though, trust no one. I’ve heard bystanders say “oh yeah, that one’s 55 pounds” for both a standard 45-pound bar, and a monster of a 69-pound trap bar.

There’s a simple way to find out how much any bar weighs: weigh it. Almost every gym has a bathroom scale kicking around somewhere, so you can weigh yourself holding the barbell, and then weigh yourself without it and subtract your own weight. (Ask the front desk staff for help if carrying it around to weigh it would be awkward. They may either know the weight, or may be able to help you wrangle it onto a scale.

That said, these are the most common bars you’re likely to encounter:

Standard 44- and 45-pound bars

These are a family of slightly different things, but I’m lumping them together because they are about the same size and weight, and can be used interchangeably for many lifts. Some are 44 pounds (because that’s 20 kilograms, and 20-kilogram bars are standard in international competition), and some are 45 pounds (which are basically the same thing, but more American). Honestly: don’t worry about the difference. A 20 kilo bar loaded with two 45-pound plates is technically 134 pounds, but everybody in the gym will say it’s 135 and you might as well go along with it.

These 45(ish) pound bars are the most common ones you’ll see in the gym. They are seven feet long, with the part you hold about an inch in diameter and the parts where the weight plates go about two inches in diameter. They are sometimes called an “Olympic” bar to distinguish them from the “standard” bars that used to be common, and which you can still buy as home gym equipment. (Ironically, “standard” bars with their one-inch sleeves are no longer standard. But the name has stuck.)

Within this category, there are a few different types of 44- and 45-pound bars:

  • Men’s Olympic bars are 20kg (about 44 pounds) for the men’s bar, and 7.2 feet long. The collars (the wider parts on the ends) spin easily. If you load them up with plenty of weight, you will see that they are “whippy,” meaning the bar tends to flex or bounce easily. These are designed with the two Olympic lifts in mind, the snatch and the clean and jerk. But you can use them for any lift you like, so you’ll find them at gyms where nobody does any Olympic lifts.

  • Power bars, used for squat, bench, deadlift, and the like, are the same size and shape as men’s Olympic bars. They tend to be stiffer (less whippy) and the collars will probably not spin as easily. If they’re not 44 pounds, they’ll be 45.

  • Deadlift bars may be a bit longer than a typical power bar, and may be thinner and more whippy. They are usually still 45 pounds.

  • Squat bars are a wild card here. Normally, the bar in a squat rack will be a regular power bar. But sometimes, it will be a specialized squat bar that is thicker and stiffer, and that may weigh 50 pounds, or sometimes 55 or more.

Women’s Olympic bars

Women’s bars are lighter and slightly thinner than men’s Olympic bars, but they are also noticeably shorter—about eight inches shorter. They weigh 15kg, or 33 pounds.

Women’s Olympic bars exist for women to use when competing in the snatch and clean and jerk. They have two main advantages over a men’s bar (if you are an average sized woman):

  • They are thinner, making them easier to grip, especially with the hook grip that Oly lifters typically use.

  • They are “whippier,” so that the bar doesn’t require quite as much weight on it for it to be able to flex and bounce. This matters in Olympic lifting (for example, when you use the bounce to help you as you’re standing up from a clean) and means basically nothing for other lifts.

Because they’re specialized for Olympic lifting, you’re only likely to see these bars in Olympic weightlifting gyms and in Crossfit gyms (and similar functional fitness spaces). You’re not too likely to see these bars in your average commercial gym.

Training bars and curl bars

These bars are lighter and may be smaller than the ones discussed above. In Olympic weightlifting, there are training bars (often 5kg or 10kg, so 11 or 22 pounds) that exist to give you something lighter to work with if you’re not ready for a full size bar. They may be the same dimensions as a women’s Olympic bar, and are used by kids learning the lifts. Again, you’re not likely to see these outside of an Olympic weightlifting gym, but you never know. They’ll be clearly marked on the endcap, and usually shouldn’t be loaded past about 50 pounds total.

Curl bars are much more common in general-purpose gyms, and are just what they sound like: shorter, smaller bars meant for doing bicep curls and other moves that don’t require a full size bar. At my gym, they’re not kept with the regular bars, but instead stored near the dumbbell racks. Curl bars are often, but not always, 25 pounds. Check for a label or weigh them to be sure.

EZ-curl bars

These are the wiggly ones. They’re used like curl bars, for exercises that use smallish amounts of weight. Their handles are designed so that you can choose the position that’s most comfortable for your wrists. They may be 25 pounds or less; this one is 15 pounds.

Trap bars and other oddly shaped things

There are a variety of other bars out there, in odd shapes and varying weights. One is the trap bar or hex bar, a hexagon big enough that you stand inside of it. (It’s mainly used for trap bar deadlifts, where your hands are at your sides and you don’t have to worry about whether you’re going to smack the bar into your shins.) Some trap bars are 45 pounds, but some are more and some are less.

There are also football bars, also called Swiss bars or multi-grip bars, that allow you to use a neutral grip for bench press or other pressing movements. Sometimes they’re 45 pounds, but again, sometimes they aren’t. You may also find safety squat bars, cambered bars, and other specialty items depending on your gym. Unusual bars aren’t standardized, so the weight is just whatever it ended up being when the bar’s maker welded all the parts together. And when in doubt, weigh it yourself.

Four Common Ways People Damage Their Tech During Cleaning

Tech devices are so dirty—but we rarely think about it because they’ve become extensions of ourselves. My phone stays in my hand after I’ve touched door knobs, subway poles, gym equipment, and more, and then goes under my pillow while I sleep, surely germing up my breathing space. And don’t get me started on my headphones, which ride around in the bottom of my bag, encountering God-knows-what down there, before I shove them directly on my face. It’s really so gross and once I realized that, I started cleaning these things much more thoroughly and frequently.

What I learned, however, is that you can absolutely clean them wrong. Don’t let a fear of germs and grime cause you to inadvertently damage your expensive tech. It’s counterproductive. Hell, I’d rather take the germs. So here’s a list of common mistakes you can make while cleaning your devices—and how to avoid them.

Using the wrong solutions

The solution you choose to clean your devices depends on what they’re made of. For instance, when I clean my AirPods Max, I use liquid laundry detergent and water to pat at the ear cushions and mesh headband, but I would never use that same mixture to clean any parts that are more electrical. Generally, when dealing with things like phones or e-readers, you don’t want to use something too harsh to wipe down the touchscreens or surfaces. That said, the prevailing wisdom across the internet is that isopropyl alcohol is ideal. Ammonia and bleach are absolutely out, but alcohol at the right concentration is better. Opt for a 70% isopropyl over a 90% and dab it on your cleaning cloth, never directly on your device. This is what I use to wipe down my phone, the hard parts of my headphones, my computer, and my Kindle. Strong alcohols can eventually wear down things like screen protectors, so I swipe it fast. What do I use to do that? Let’s get into the next common mistake.

Using the wrong material

At this point, if you don’t have a bunch of microfiber cloths on hand, I’m disappointed in you. Not only are they the best for cleaning your home, but they’re the gold standard for cleaning tech. You don’t want a pad that is too abrasive, nor do you want a paper towel that will leave tiny debris behind as it disintegrates. Enter microfiber. You can get 24 of the cloths for under $10, so it’s really a no-brainer. These don’t scratch whatever they’re rubbing on (as long as they’re clean), which makes them ideal for delicate touchscreens.

That said, I do usually keep a few pre-made, single-use cleaning wipes around in case of emergency. I try to use the microfiber cloth and 70% isopropyl alcohol in the comfort of my own home, but sometimes, I just need to do a quick cleaning out and about. I have not noticed any major issues from doing this sporadically and it’s a cheap option, too: You can get 100 for about $7.

Manhandling the ports

If you clean your charging and headphone ports incorrectly, you can cause internal damage. These, plus air vents, volume controls, power buttons, and even the spaces around keys must be handled with the utmost care. Obviously, never get any liquid near them (depending on the device, anyway). But also make sure you have the right tools to carefully lift dust out, not push it deeper in.

Personally, I use teeny-tiny brushes that came with my DIY eyelash lifting kit. The instructions for the kit refer to them as “microbrushes” and micro they are. The fluffy part is basically the size of a pin head. Do I expect you to have an at-home eyelash lifting kit? No, but I do expect you to have access to a teeny-tiny brush. A phone cleaning kit might seem like an unnecessary purchase, but in reality, spending $14 to ensure the safety of your $1,000+ tech is not a big deal in the grand scheme of things. A kit like the one above includes a variety of brushes that fit in every nook and cranny, but you still need to use them wisely. Angle them so you’re always popping dust out, never push them directly into a port or hole, and do this in a well-lit space. Bonus points if you haul out a magnifying glass.

Not using protection (or using the wrong kind)

A few weeks ago, I got silicone protectors for my AirPods Max, realizing that what worked for my phone (protection) could also work for other devices. Now, much of my stuff is covered in a delicate film of rubber. These upgrades were huge for me. It’s much easier to remove silicone casing and run it under some water than it is to fiddle with dirty devices. An ounce of prevention really is worth a pound of cure.

There are exceptions to this rule, however, and not keeping them in mind can inadvertently cause some issues. A case is good for headphones or a phone, but hardshell laptop covers can mess with your computer vents or put too much pressure on your display. You’re better off with a laptop sleeve that can protect your pricy computer while it’s in transit.

Similarly, although silicone keyboard covers work well to keep crumbs out of the cracks around all your various laptop buttons, Apple recommends against using them—or at least against closing the laptop with one on, as it can damage the display. You’re better off with a quick cleaning at the end of each work day.

Phone and tech cleaning guidelines to keep in mind

There are a few mistakes that are easy to correct, if you know what to do. Never press too hard, never apply cleaning solution directly to the product (lest it drip down into those all-important holes or be too concentrated on the surface), and always turn your device off before cleaning it. Wipe quickly and don’t let any liquid stay on any part of the tech for too long, then let it air dry completely before powering back on.