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The Apple Watch Series 11 is now available, and just a few days into using a review unit, I’m happy with the upgrade. But whether it’ll be worth it to you is a different story entirely.

Before the Series 11, I was still using a first-generation Apple Watch SE. Since I don’t need much from my smartwatch, the SE was enough for me: basic media playback with heart-rate tracking and tap-to-pay. What more could I want?

But the Series 11 taught me that I could want much more. Its bigger screen with an always-on display is a nice bonus, as is the thinner and lighter design. The problem is that the Apple Watch Series 11 isn’t the first Apple Watch with those bonuses. If you’re like me and haven’t upgraded in a while, the Apple Watch Series 11 is a great pick. But those with a newer Apple Watch may want to hold off and save their money.

What I love most about the Apple Watch Series 11

While the Apple Watch Series 11 comes with a new chip and upgrades to both battery life and wireless connectivity, I’ve already mentioned what I value most about it. Essentially, I just like that this thing is super comfortable to wear. At its release, the Series 10 was Apple’s thinnest and lightest smartwatch, but since the Series 11 has inherited its design, it’s now tied with its successor.

Apple Watch Series 10 in profile (left) vs. Apple Watch Series 11 in profile (right)
Credit: Michelle Ehrhardt

Both hardly feel like you’re wearing anything at all (while I don’t use the Series 10 on a day-to-day basis, my husband has one that he’s letting me borrow to write this). While my SE’s circular sensor bump often feels like it’s jutting into my wrist, both the Series 10 and 11 feel flat on my wrist, thanks to their thinner bodies. It’s a huge relief over an extended period, and it only gets better with the few grams Apple’s knocked off the weight.

The display also contributes to the comfort. Both the Series 10 and the Series 11 have an always-on display, and while an always-on display has been available as far back as the Series 5, this is my first time using one on a watch. The Apple Watch display also got 9% bigger starting on the Series 10, so the Series 11 screen is a bit more luxurious than anyone on a Series 9 or before will be used to.

The bigger, always-on display helps with comfort because it’s much more glanceable. With my SE, I had to raise my wrist to see my watch screen, and the 10 and 11 don’t need that. At 2,000 nits of brightness, they’re easy to see even if your wrist is at your side and slightly turned, and with OLED and a 1Hz refresh rate, the always-on display is able to update every second without wasting unnecessary battery life. Having my screen turn off was probably the biggest annoyance of using a smartwatch over a traditional watch for me, and now it’s something I don’t have to worry about at all.

Apple Watch SE display (left) vs. Apple Watch Series 11 display (right)
Credit: Michelle Ehrhardt

I’m pleased enough with the improved comfort to shell out money for a Series 11 after returning this review unit. I was worried that, because the Series 11 starts at 42mm while my first-gen SE is 40mm, it might feel a bit too big. In actuality, while I still prefer a small watch, it’s turned out to be the better size for me.

What else can the Apple Watch Series 11 do?

If you’re upgrading from an older watch, the Series 11 also gives you access to a lot more sensors. But to be honest, most are overkill. For instance, you can use it as a dive computer down to 6 meters (or about 20 feet), which isn’t particularly handy for most people. But there are some advanced features worth caring about.

First, it’s easier to control this smartwatch than older Apple smartwatches. With watchOS 26, the Series 9, 10, and 11 got support for both the wrist flick and double tap gestures, and they’re both pretty convenient. Think of them as “dismiss” and “confirm,” respectively. You can use wrist flick to turn down notifications, and while you can customize double tap a bit more, the idea is that you’ll use it to start a song or navigate your smart stack without using your hands.

Essentially, the goal is that these features keep you from having to fumble with your watch screen if you’re otherwise occupied. For instance, I got a phone call while working out with the Series 11 this morning (where it was much more comfortable on my wrist than my SE), and quickly rotating my wrist away from my body was all I needed to do to decline the call. Normally, I would have just let it ring until it went to voicemail, so this was a nice way to save myself the distraction.

Aside from the new gestures, the Series 11 also has a few new health features. Like with the depth meter, whether you’ll actually use them depends on who you are, but there are a few in particular that I’m happy to have. For instance, like my colleague Beth Skwarecki, I’m not too enthused about Sleep Score, which tries to break down your sleep quality into one number but seems too generalized for me to get much use out of. Hypertension notifications, on the other hand, are a big deal to me. Hypertension notifications weren’t available on my SE (and still aren’t on any SE, for that matter). Instead, you need an Apple Watch Series 9 or above. What these notifications do is passively track how your blood vessels respond to your heart rate using a PPG, then send you a notification if your watch notices significant irregularities over a 30-day period.

One of the reasons my husband picked up an Apple Watch Series 10 was so he could use the ECG to track his heart rate over time, rather than just when he was working out. This helped him figure out that his heart rate would sometimes be way too high after drinking caffeine or while going to bed, which his doctor eventually diagnosed as AFiB. He might have missed out on this if he didn’t have the data to back it up, but he’s now gotten it treated, and says he feels a lot more stable across the day, with no random spikes (plus, AFiB has the potential to get pretty serious if left untreated, so his doctor is glad he was able to catch it early).

If these Hypertension Notifications, which do a similar thing but for high blood pressure, can help my husband keep his heart healthy, then I’m all for them. He does have to regularly check his blood pressure as part of his ongoing treatment, and while the Apple Watch can’t give him specific numbers, it should help him passively determine what his numbers mean and if he needs to be worried. Plus, I’m interested in trying them, too. The CDC says that “of the 75 million Americans who have hypertension…about 11 million of them don’t know their blood pressure is too high and are not receiving treatment to control it.” Given how well my husband’s Apple Watch helped him diagnose his AFiB, it brings a little extra peace of mind to have it checking for high blood pressure, too.

What’s new on the Apple Watch Series 11?

The catch is that the Apple Watch Series 11 isn’t the only way to get these new features. The thin and light display is on the Series 10, “wrist flick” and “double tap” are on the Series 9 and above, and so are Hypertension Notifications. The Series 11 is a great upgrade over my SE, but if you’ve been more up to date with your Apple Watch, you might not want to get the newest model at all. You’d likely be buying Series 11 for only three things.

First, the Apple Watch Series 11 has a 5G modem. Currently, the Apple Watch Series 11, SE 3, and Ultra 3 are the only Apple Watches with 5G connectivity, whereas older models use LTE, which is a type of 4G. That means these watches are faster, but because 5G is also more efficient than 4G, will also save some battery life when using online features. 

Second, the Series 11 has an improved Ion-X glass display. This uses proprietary tech, and Apple says it’s two times more scratch resistant than the Series 10. It’s only available on aluminum models, as titanium models use a slightly less durable sapphire crystal display instead, but it’s also on the SE 3 (the Ultra 3 instead opts for sapphire crystal).

And third, the Series 11 has a longer battery life. While I haven’t had the Series 11 long enough to test its longevity, Apple is claiming 24 hours of battery life on the Series 11 (or 38 in Low Power Mode) versus 18 hours on the Series 10 (or 36 in Low Power Mode). I have a trip coming up, and I’m curious to see how these claims hold up while I’m adventuring away from a plug for a long period of time.

Still, while all of these are nice-to-haves, none of them are as flashy as, say, the thin new body that came with the Series 10. Additionally, if you have a Series 10 and are already careful about scratching your watch or don’t have a cellular plan for it, then you’re not going to get use out of anything but the improved battery life.

I both do and don’t recommend the Apple Watch Series 11

Apple Watch Series 10 (left) vs. Apple Watch Series 11 (right)
Credit: Michelle Ehrhardt

Which brings me to my final point. The Apple Watch Series 11 is a great watch if you’re a few years behind on upgrades, but it’s probably worth skipping if you have a Series 10. It’s been a major quality of life improvement for me over my first-gen SE, which came out in 2020, but if it weren’t a different color than the Series 10, my husband might not have been able to tell it apart from what he already has.

That’s why, once I have to return this review unit, I’ll probably spend the $400 to get one. That’s the same price that the Series 10 has been at until now, and while you can currently find the Series 10 at a mild discount at third-party retailers, the new battery life is probably worth the extra $40-50 for me. But my husband, on the other hand, will keep kicking with what’s already on his wrist.

I assume that’s what a lot of other people will do: Upgrade if you’re a few years behind, but otherwise wait. But there’s one other option. (Well, OK, two options if you want to go premium and get the $800 Apple Watch Ultra 3). You could just get an Apple Watch SE 3 instead. Releasing alongside the Series 11, this is a major upgrade over the SE 2, starting at $250 and upgrading that model to include an always-on display, sleep apnea notifications, temperature sensing, 5G, fast-charge, and both the wrist flick and double tap notifications. But it’s not quite as thin as the Apple Watch Series 11, the screen isn’t as big, and it can’t do ECG tracking or Hypertension notifications. I’ve been so thoroughly spoiled by the Series 11 that I’m not sure I can settle for that, but for others, it might be just the sweet spot.

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The iPhone Air is a brand-new type of phone for Apple, shrinking down the iPhone’s internals into the thinnest form factor yet, at just 0.22 inches thick. Despite all that, Apple is promising up to 27 hours of video playback, which is just three hours fewer than it’s estimating for the iPhone 17.

Honestly, I’m skeptical—and I’m not alone in that. Most of the phones I test don’t quite live up to their official battery life estimates, which are always done in ideal conditions and usually come with a number of caveats. It’s possible the iPhone Air will have significant battery shortcoming compared to the other new iPhones, which I’ll confirm when I’ve been able to test it. But despite not getting extended time with the phone, I have gotten to hold the iPhone Air, and I will admit that it feels downright magical in the hand, almost like a credit card that can make phone calls.

I won’t blame you if you’re willing to sacrifice some battery life or camera potential to snag one for yourself, but if you do, here are the settings you’ll want to turn on to eke out some extra battery life.

Low Power Mode

Credit: Michelle Ehrhardt

The most obvious way to extend battery life on your phone is to turn on Low Power Mode. On an iPhone, doing so is as simple as swiping down from your Home Screen’s top right corner and tapping the battery icon in the control center (or you can go to Settings > Battery > Power Mode and toggle on Low Power Mode from there).

This will make the most battery life-extending changes for you, but will also come with the biggest hits to performance and usability. That means it’ll reduce your background activities, lower your refresh rate and brightness, and limit features like 5G and iCloud syncing. It’ll also cut some animations and start automatically locking your phone after 30 seconds of inactivity. Essentially, it’s probably not how you’ll want to use your phone most of the time, but it can help in a pinch.

Adaptive Power mode

Adaptive Power mode is kind of like a less aggressive Low Power Mode. You’ll find it in the same menu as Low Power Mode, under Settings > Battery > Power Mode, although you’ll need an iPhone 15 Pro or above and iOS 26 to access it.

When enabled, this will use Apple Intelligence to adjust your phone’s performance on the fly, rather than immediately battening down all hatches like Low Power Mode. Based on your usage patterns, it’ll attempt to predict when you’ll need more battery life than usual, and will make tweaks like stopping background apps from refreshing, lowering screen brightness by 3%, or just generally making “performance adjustments.” How it works is all very new and behind the Apple curtain for now, but the idea is that while you’re only meant to turn Low Power Mode on when you absolutely need it, you can set Adaptive Power mode and forget it. And it’s not one-or-the-other, either. You can still use Low Power Mode in addition to Adaptive Power Mode. In fact, if your phone is at less than 20% battery, Adaptive Power Mode will turn Low Power Mode on for you.

The catch? Adaptive Power Mode needs seven days to learn your charging habits, so you’ll need to enable it at least a week before you actually want to use it.

Turn down your brightness

Credit: Michelle Ehrhardt

Let’s say you don’t trust Apple’s various power modes to adjust your phone’s settings for you, or you only want to limit a few things. That’s totally an option. In that case, let’s start with brightness. Keeping your phone at max brightness all the time isn’t just eye-searing, but it’ll also drain your battery faster. That’s why you’ll probably want to turn it down to just what you need for the situation you’re in.

You’ve got a few options here. The easiest is to simply swipe down from your Home Screen’s top right corner, then adjust your brightness using the slider with the sun icon on it. If you prefer to adjust your brightness in the Settings app, you can head over to Settings > Display & Brightness and scroll down until you see the slider there. You’ll see a bunch of other options here, but they’re more about color temperature, and won’t actually help you adjust your brightness (although we will return to them later on in this guide).

But if you’re like me, manually controlling your brightness all the time will get a bit tiring. That’s why I prefer to turn on Auto-Brightness. Simply toggle it on under Settings > Accessibility > Display & Text Size > Auto-Brightness, and your phone will automatically lower the brightness when you’re in a dark environment or turn it up while you’re surrounded by sunlight. It gives you a bit less control, but it’s pretty convenient.

Turn down the amount of time until your phone auto-locks

Credit: Michelle Ehrhardt

Back in Settings > Display & Brightness, you’ll see a toggle called Auto-Lock. This is what kicks you out of your phone and back to your lock screen after a certain amount of inactivity. Personally, I like to leave it at five minutes, so I can safely read long articles or check recipes while cooking without being kicked out for not tapping the screen enough. But that does drain my battery faster.

To eke out more battery life from your phone, try turning it down to the 30-second or one-minute mark. You might need to remind your phone that you’re there more often than you’d like, but it’ll keep you from needlessly draining your battery if you accidentally get up and leave your phone behind without locking it first.

And don’t worry: even with the auto-lock set to its strictest settings, it won’t lock the screen while you’re watching a video or playing a game.

Turn off the always-on display

Credit: Michelle Ehrhardt

The iPhone’s always-on display, added with the iPhone 14 Pro, is one of my favorite things about Apple’s most recent iPhone models, since it makes it easy to check notifications or the time at a glance. But it will drain your battery, even if it’s set to a low, 1Hz refresh rate.

To turn it off, again head to Settings > Display & Brightness, then tap Always On Display and toggle off Always On Display at the bottom of the menu that pops up. If you want to compromise, you can simply toggle off Show Wallpaper at the top of the same menu. This will keep the always on display on, but everything except for the clock and your widgets will be black. That’ll save you some battery life needed to display color, which brings me to my next tip.

Turn on Dark Mode

Credit: Michelle Ehrhardt

Here’s my final tip for Settings > Display & Brightness. At the top of this page, you’ll be able to select whether you want your phone in Light Mode or Dark Mode. If you want to save battery life, choose Dark Mode. That’s because the iPhone uses an OLED screen, so each individual pixel is self-illuminating. If a pixel only needs to display black, it just won’t turn on, saving you battery life.

Dark Mode won’t work across all apps, but in ones that support it, it’ll swap your background to black, which should help your phone last longer over time.

Manage your data consumption

Credit: Michelle Ehrhardt

Connecting to a network to use data actually drains more power than wifi, because a cellular connection requires a stronger signal over long distances. That means, to save battery life on your iPhone, you’ll want to be a bit strict about data consumption.

You’ve got a few options here. The easiest is to simply turn off data altogether, by swiping down from the Home Screen and turning off the small green data icon next to the Bluetooth icon in the top left corner. This will turn off data altogether, but because it doesn’t discriminate between apps, it’s not ideal for everyday use.

To be a bit more specific with how your iPhone uses data, you’ll need to navigate to Settings > Cellular. Here, you’ve got a few controls at your fingertips.

The easiest choice to make here is disabling Wi-Fi Assist, which supplements your wifi with data connection when it’s running slow. Since our goal here is to reduce our reliance on data, having it on isn’t ideal.

You might also want to turn off iCloud Drive and iCloud Backup, which will use your cell network to transfer and backup files to iCloud when wifi isn’t available.

Above these toggles, you’ll also be able to see your most data hungry apps and restrict their access to your network. This can be helpful even if you’re not trying to increase battery life, as you can probably cut down on unnecessary data usage here as well.

Finally, let’s enable Wi-Fi Calling. This will allow your phone to make calls over the internet while you’re connected to wifi, saving you some cellular data. Head back to the main Settings menu, then scroll down to Apps > Phone. Here, scroll down to Calls and ensure Wi-Fi Calling is turned on. If you want to, you can even scroll up and uncheck Cellular Data under Allow Phone to Access, although this will keep you from making calls unless you’re connected to wifi.

Manage background app refresh

Credit: Michelle Ehrhardt

Just because you’ve navigated away from an app on your iPhone doesn’t mean it isn’t running anymore. Instead, plenty of apps will continue to refresh in the background, updating their content but also draining your battery. Luckily, you have a few choices here.

To see your options, head to Settings > General > Background App Refresh. You’ll see your phone’s general approach to refreshing apps in the background, as well as toggles for every app on your phone.

Click the Background App Refresh button in the menu and you can choose whether to turn it off, keep it on all the time, or only enable it when you’re on wifi. Off is the most battery efficient option, but if you’re not that strict, you can also choose Wi-Fi to at least keep the feature from using your data (which, again, drains more battery).

With that done, if you’ve left the feature on, you can now scroll through your list of apps and select which apps you want to allow to refresh in the background. This could save you some battery life if you don’t want to turn the feature off altogether, but do want to disable it for certain hungry apps. Unfortunately, unlike with the Cellular Data menu, you won’t see how hungry your apps are here, so you’ll have to guess.

Just buy an external battery pack

Credit: Apple

Finally, you could just give up and buy an external power pack. The iPhone Air will work with any external batteries that your other iPhones do, and despite being so thin, it will securely attach to compatible batteries via MagSafe. As much as I hate to suggest “just spend more money” as an option, Apple doesn’t share that concern. In fact, it’s even made a MagSafe battery designed specifically for the iPhone Air, which it says will give you “65 percent additional charge” while still maintaining a slim profile.

It costs $100, and whether that’s worth it to you will depend on your priorities. Personally, I’m not quite sure myself, since you’d presumably be buying the iPhone Air because it’s thin and light. If that’s the case, why slap an external battery on it? But I can also see why you’d want a MagSafe battery some of the time and a slim form factor at other times. Just be aware: This battery is a bit tall, so it won’t fit vertically on either the iPhone 17 or iPhone 17 Pro.