Xbox’s First Gaming Handheld Feels Like a Missed Opportunity

Nintendo did it. Sony did it. Even Sega did it. And now, Microsoft finally has launched its own dedicated handheld gaming device…kind of.

Revealed yesterday during the summer Xbox Games Showcase, the Asus ROG Xbox Ally is closer to a Steam Deck than a PSP or Nintendo Switch. Essentially, it’s a spin on Asus’ existing handheld gaming PC, the ROG Ally, but with Xbox style grips, an Xbox button, and a sleeker approach to Windows that skips most of the guff and takes you right to a game launcher (where you’ll find all your various game stores, including Steam and Epic) that you can navigate entirely with your controller.

In other words, it isn’t a portable Xbox, it’s a handheld gaming PC with Xbox branding.

A better Windows-based gaming experience, for a price

Even if that might be disappointing to Xbox diehards, on the surface, it’s at least potentially great news—maybe even everything PC gamers have been asking Windows-based gaming handhelds to do for a while, as that operating system as it currently exists is no fun to navigate with a controller-based device. And loading right into the Xbox app isn’t only more immediate; Microsoft says the handheld will actually skip loading certain parts of Windows, which could make the OS more lightweight and actually boost performance. Finally, systems running Microsoft’s OS could potentially compete with the likes of the Steam Deck, especially because Microsoft says the new Xbox handheld gaming PC experience is coming soon to other devices, including some are already on the market.

And yet, Microsoft doesn’t have to compete with just the Steam Deck anymore. Notably, this announcement came on the weekend after the Nintendo Switch 2 launched, and it’s hard not to see it as at least a little out-of-date.

Also, the ROG Xbox Ally is ugly. While official dimensions aren’t out yet, it also appears to be a little thick, and on the heavier side.Pricing hasn’t been revealed yet either, but based on the specs Microsoft offered up, and the existing ROG Ally pricing, we can probably expect the two models of this thing (the ROG Xbox Ally and ROG Xbox Ally X) to come in at around $600 and $1,000, respectively.


Credit: Michelle Ehrhardt

That might sound reasonable to hardcore gamers, but next to the sleek, Apple-eqsue, $450 Nintendo Switch 2, or even the $400 Steam Deck, it’s a big ask, and puts me in mind of other pricey Steam Deck competitors we’ve seen before. Especially because, according to an interview Asus consumer vice president Shawn Yen had with Game File, Microsoft says the new device will target between 720p and 900p to 1080p (depending on your model), which is roughly equivalent to what’s on the Steam Deck now. Games might run at a slightly higher frame rate, but this won’t be a total game changer. Casual players might not even notice a difference.

In short, it’s a more iterative change, which is unfortunate for a debut handheld. There are benefits to a more usable Windows-based gaming handheld—notably, the Steam Deck can’t run games with anti-cheat, plus the Xbox experience is supposed to make it quicker to run games that aren’t from Steam than they’ll run on the Steam Deck (which can also run games from other launchers, but only after jumping through a few hoops). But the Steam Deck has always been my go-to handheld gaming PC recommendation for a reason: it’s affordable, simple to use, and has good-enough performance. The ROG Xbox Ally seems poised to take the mantle of simplicity, but I’m skeptical that the performance bumps (it will use a newer processor than the Steam Deck) will be enough to justify the cost.

Not really a handheld Xbox

The result? An Xbox handheld that won’t be the go-to portable gaming experience for Xbox fans, but rather an Xbox skin on top of a boutique option, ideal for only the most dedicated of fans. That’s not the worst thing in the world, but a missed opportunity, especially when compared to the shiny new Switch 2.

Speaking of, I’ve been playing with the Switch 2 over the weekend, and this thing is sleek. My full review is still forthcoming, but in summary, it’s thin, light, looks a heck of a lot better than the Xbox handheld, runs like a dream, and is still cheaper than the forthcoming Xbox device. Sure, it’s limited in ways a full PC isn’t, but that also makes it more approachable. The Switch 2 feels like a peek at the future of mainstream handheld gaming, while Xbox’s handheld feels more like a stopgap. (Though I’d still recommend the Steam Deck to most handheld PC gamers, and the Switch 2 to any console fans looking for a new handheld.)

Maybe I’m expecting too much. It’s a lot, thinking that Xbox might be able to compete with Nintendo on its first handheld attempt. But the company’s “This is an Xbox” campaign has also been adamant on pushing its cloud streaming and Game Pass experiences over its hardware, and a sleeker, more affordable Xbox handheld could have been a great compliment to that, and helped it carve out a niche as a Steam Deck-alike for people coming from console gaming, or the handheld for Switch gamers who want something a bit more hardcore. Instead, it seems like a nice upgrade for people who were already sold on the idea of the ROG Ally, and nobody else.

All the iOS 26 Features Apple Barely Mentioned at WWDC 2025

iOS gains so many new features with each version update that it’s impractical to condense everything into a single keynote. While the big iOS 26 features, including ones that Apple borrowed from others, got all the attention, I think some of the most exciting features were buried during the WWDC 2025 keynote. Apple briefly showed a slide containing all these hidden features, and I’ve compiled them here:

36 hidden iOS 26 features


Credit: Apple

The above slide is all we have to go on for these features. Some of them are obvious from the title alone, but others aren’t so clear. I’ve tried to add context wherever I can, but there is some speculation necessary here until we know more about iOS 26:

  1. Custom snooze length for alarms: If you want to snooze for more or less than the standard nine minutes, this feature could be really useful.

  2. AirPods Automatic Switching with CarPlay: Automatic switching lets you quickly connect your AirPods to the Apple device you’re actively using. It looks like Apple is extending it to CarPlay, too.

  3. Enhance Dialogue: This feature should mean Apple Podcasts can boost vocals in podcasts and suppress background noises. All of the best podcast apps must have this feature.

  4. Use Focus to silence SIM: It looks like iOS 26 will let you use Focuses to silence one SIM, which is great for those who use two numbers on their iPhone.

  5. Communication requests: Screen Time could be getting support for requests to use messaging apps. This may allow parents to better regulate who their children are talking to.

  6. ‘Add Contact’ button in groups: This could make it easy to add people to your contacts from a group in the Messages app.

  7. Rich entry layout: The Journal app is getting a better layout for starting a new entry, but we don’t quite know what that is yet.

  8. Events in Photos: It looks like iOS 26 will add support for events in the Photos app.

  9. Lens cleaning hint: If your iPhone or iPad’s camera lens is dirty, iOS 26’s Camera app will ask you to clean it.

  10. Specify spelling with Dictation: A neat way to reduce typos when you’re using Dictation to type.

  11. Auto-Categorize: Reminders will be able to automatically sort your to-dos.

  12. Manage AutoFill credit cards in Wallet: It appears that Apple is moving stored credit card data to the Wallet app.

  13. Safety Check while blocking a contact: Safety Check removes other people’s access to shared iPhone data, such as your location. Apple seems to be adding Safety Check prompts when you block a contact as another way to ensure your safety.

  14. Photo previews: Messages is gaining the ability to show image previews on your iPhone, though it’s not clear exactly how that compares to the current system.

  15. Relevant video thumbnails in search results: Based on this description, it looks like search results in Photos may now include specific parts of a video that are relevant to the search term.

  16. Arabic Calculator: The calculator app is getting a new mode.

  17. Braille Access: A braille note taker is coming to your iPhone.

  18. AirPods pause media when asleep: Your AirPods can detect when you’ve dozed off and pause media accordingly. This detection likely ties to Apple Watch.

  19. Easier controller pairing: Apple’s making it easy to pair gaming controllers with your iPhone and iPad.

  20. Suggested reminders: iOS 26 might suggest reminders based on your iPhone activity.

  21. Select partial text in a bubble: In iOS 18, the Messages app lets you copy an entire text you’ve sent or received, but it doesn’t allow you to select a part of the message. That’s about to change with iOS 26.

  22. More playback speeds: Apple Podcasts in iOS 18 supports playback speeds from 0.75x to 2x. It’s going to get more speed options in iOS 26, though we don’t know which or how many yet.

  23. Multiscript keyboard for Arabic/English: For easier switching between the two languages.

  24. New Monogram styles: The Phone app now supports more Monogram options.

  25. Natural language search: It might be easier to search in Messages. Natural language could let you narrow down searches even if you don’t remember the correct search operators.

  26. Adaptive power: Your iPhone will make small changes, such as lowering brightness, to improve battery life.

  27. Password history: Apple Passwords will remember older passwords used with any login item.

  28. Accessibility Reader: This makes it easy to read small text in any app.

  29. Estimated time to charge: This tells you how long you need to wait until your iPhone’s battery is fully charged.

  30. See your entries on a map: The Journal app will save location metadata to help you find entries by location.

  31. Export Notes to Markdown: Apple Notes is gaining support for Markdown exports. 

  32. Create multiple journals: The Journal app will now let you create more than one journal.

  33. Screen sharing and SharePlay on a phone call: It looks like these features are no longer exclusive to FaceTime calls

  34. Create reminders from Action button: The Action button gets yet another useful action.

  35. Block list in Settings: This appears to be an improvement to the way blocked contacts are handled.

  36. New incident report types in Maps: When you want to report an incident in Apple Maps, you’ll find more report types in the app in iOS 26.

Why That USB-C Cable Isn’t Charging Your Device Quickly Enough

When USB-C first arrived, it seemed like we had finally achieved the digital dream of one, universal plug that could do everything. The reality, however, is much more annoying. While everything from your laptop to tablet to phone can connect to the same cable or charger, they can get very different results, depending on which charger or cable you’re using. Worse yet, it’s not always clear why.

This issue stems from two major problems. The first are cables that conform to different USB specifications, without necessarily being labeled as such. And the second is charging blocks that provide different levels of power, more often with at least some kind of label, but less clarity on what those labels mean.

There’s a decent chance that you’ve encountered this problem without even realizing it. A friend of mine, for example, had an external portable monitor that connected to her laptop solely via a USB-C cable—a specific cable she called the “magic cable.” She called it this because, for reasons she couldn’t figure out, any other cable would simply not work. Those other cables were useful for charging a phone or connecting a peripheral, but not for this portable monitor. 

If you’ve found yourself in a similar situation, here’s what makes those cables so magic.

Why not all USB-C cables are created equal

To demonstrate the main issue here, what do you imagine when I say “USB-C”? If you pictured a squat little oval connector, you’re right! If you pictured that oval connected to a cable, however, well that’s a bit of a different story. Technically—and for this explanation, we’re gonna have to get pretty technical—”USB-C” refers only to the port and connector type itself.

Beyond that, USB specifications are used to denote minimum data transfer speeds and power supplied. This can get complicated, but the important part for charging purposes is a cable or charger’s Power Delivery rating. 

Power Delivery (often written as USB-PD) is a subset of USB specifications that allows a cable to provide enough power to charge your devices. “Enough” is a pretty relative term, though. Every USB port provides a little bit of power—that’s why your wired mouse or keyboard turn on when you plug them in, after all—but when it comes to charging devices like your smartphone or tablet, the electricity demands get higher.

Why using the right charger matters

Power Delivery was a feature added to the USB specifications so that manufacturers can’t denote just how much power a particular charger can supply. This is usually measured in watts (or W). For example, a laptop might come with a 100W power supply, while a smartphone might only require a 20W charger for fast charging.

That also brings us to another complicating factor: fast charging. Technically, if you plug a lower-wattage charger into a higher-power device, it can still charge off of it; it just might take a long time. A 5W charger might power up your phone overnight, while a 20W charger will fill its battery over an hour or two.

For devices like laptops or tablets, the amount of power you consume just by using your device can actually exceed how much power a slow-charging cable can provide. This is why my friend’s portable monitor needed a specific cable. Powering on a bright screen takes quite a bit of power, and the non-magic cables were likely only designed for things like plugging in a mouse or charging headphones. If the device you’ve plugged in demands more power than the cable or charging block can provide, it will either continue to drain the battery (though perhaps a bit slower), or shut off entirely.

If you’re plugging a cable into a standalone charging block, that’s another important piece of the puzzle. Charging blocks that connect to a wall outlet don’t always provide the maximum amount of power to the cables plugged into them. Some blocks that have multiple outlets might even provide different levels of power to different plugs.

It’s important to make sure that whatever you’re using to charge your devices, you make sure that every step in the chain is up to the task. The power outlet in your home provides enough power (we’d hope), but beyond that, the charging block, the cable, and even the device itself all need to support the amount of power delivery you need.

So, how do you find the right charging cable?

The most annoying part about all of this is that between the standards agency that manages USB specifications, and manufacturers trying to distinguish their own products, labeling USB cables has become a nightmare. To put it in perspective, cables that are capable of transferring up to 5Gbps have, over the last decade or so, been referred to as USB 3.0, USB 3.1 Gen 1, and USB 3.2 Gen 1. These labels all, somehow, refer to basically the same thing.

So, forget all of that. If all you’re concerned with is how fast you charge your gadgets, there are two main things you should look for:

  • What charger came with the device? This is the easiest one. If a charger or cable came with your device, that’s the one that will probably charge it the fastest. If you use a slower cable, the device will slow down to match it, and if you use a faster one, the device won’t charge faster than it’s programmed to do.

  • What is the wattage of the charger? If you’re buying third-party, many manufacturers will list the maximum wattage of their products. This is usually a bit more common for charging blocks than cables themselves, but in general, higher is better. Your phone absolutely does not need a 100W charger, but your laptop might. And, as mentioned before, your devices will default to the slowest element in the chain.

In some cases, you can find a label on a charger that lists how much power it supplies, like “100W,” though if it’s not printed directly on a device, you can look up its model online. Another handy trick, if a cable doesn’t have a label but you know what device it came with, is to look up the product itself. If, say, your smartphone says it requires a 20W charger for fast charging, then it’s safe to assume that any cables it came with support at least that much.

What happens if you use the “wrong” charger?

The good news is, in the vast majority of cases, you won’t damage your devices if you use the wrong charger on them. A 100W charger can still fast charge your phone even if it doesn’t use its full capacity. Even a too-slow charger will provide power; it just might take a while. In fact, if you had a smartphone before companies started advertising “fast charging,” that’s basically what was happening.

The only major way things can go wrong is if you try to use your device to do something that takes more power than the charger can provide. Gaming laptops are particularly susceptible to this. Even high-powered 100W USB-C chargers can’t always provide enough energy to offset the demand from AAA games that run your GPU hot. Incidentally, this is why gaming laptops are one of the few devices that still come with a giant honking charging brick.

Even in that case, you’re not likely to damage your device, but it will rely on whatever battery power it has to keep going. It will drain more slowly, since it’s trying to draw power from both the battery and the wall at once, but if you’re doing anything too demanding, it will eventually die.

When it comes to peripherals—like my friend’s portable monitor—that don’t have their own batteries, however, they simply won’t turn on. If you’re plugging in a device that needs power via USB, but it won’t turn on, there’s a good chance you’re either using a cable that’s not rated to transfer enough power, or the device you’re plugging it into isn’t able to give it enough.

These Apple Devices Won’t Get Software Updates Anymore

During its WWDC 2025 keynote, Apple announced a ton of great features for iOS 26, iPadOS 26, macOS 26, and watchOS 26—but not all Apple devices are coming along for the ride. While the company has a great track record for supporting devices for years, some devices won’t be getting any of these updates. Here’s a quick list for you to check if your devices will continue to receive updates beyond this fall.

Three iPhones didn’t make the iOS 26 cut

It’s a good thing that I gave away my old iPhone XS Max earlier this year, because it’s one of the following three iPhones which do not support iOS 26:

  • iPhone XR

  • iPhone XS

  • iPhone XS Max

One iPad won’t be getting iPadOS 26

On the iPad front, the news is mostly good, except for those who are still holding onto the iPad (7th Gen). That tablet won’t be getting iPadOS 26, but all other devices running iPadOS 18 will receive the OS upgrade this fall.

Almost all Intel Macs are being left behind

The gradual cull of the Intel Macs continues. Apple is dropping many of them for macOS Tahoe, including:

  • MacBook Air (2020, Intel)

  • MacBook Pro (2018, all models)

  • MacBook Pro (2019, 13-inch and 15-inch models)

  • MacBook Pro (2020, Intel, 2 Thunderbolt ports)

  • Mac mini (2018)

  • iMac (2019)

  • iMac Pro (2017)

Curiously, macOS Tahoe does support the 2020 MacBook Pro with four Thunderbolt ports, which is sad news for the owners of the model with two ports. Apple doesn’t explain why it’s only continuing to support the four-port models, but I doubt it’s because of the extra ports. It looks like the two-port models shipped with an 8th-gen 1.4GHz quad-core Intel Core i5 processor, while the four-port came with a 10th-gen 2.0GHz quad‑core Intel Core i5. While you could configure the two-port with a faster processor, it was still an 8th-gen, which I suspect is the reason Apple is dropping it for Tahoe.

Apple isn’t dropping support for any watches this year

Fortunately, it looks like all Apple Watch models compatible with watchOS 11 are getting upgraded to watchOS 16. While the devices mentioned above won’t get upgraded to the newest software versions, Apple may issue security updates or minor software updates from time to time.

iPadOS 26 Basically Turns Your iPad Into a MacBook

Finally, at WWDC 2025, Apple has done what I’ve been asking for for years. In addition to Liquid Glass, iPadOS 26 finally gives the iPad a proper, Mac-style window management system. You can now have multiple windows on the same screen, complete with a menu bar! And there are more features, like the Preview app, background tasks, a better Files app, and more.

A real windowing system for the iPad


Credit: Apple

A real window management system is coming to the iPad, and it has nothing to do with the more limited Stage Manager feature. By default, apps on iPad will still be full screen. But now, they’ll have a grab-handle on the side that lets you resize the window down to a smaller size, then move that window around the screen. Revealing your screen will bring up the dock, and you can have multiple windows on screen at once. You can even open any app you had previously opened, and it will resume its latest state, with the exact same size and position on the screen. Just like on Mac!

And yes, real window management means also means the iPad is getting Mac-style traffic-light buttons for closing, minimizing, and making apps full screen. When you hover on these buttons with the new, smaller cursor pointer, they will automatically expand.

Just like the Mac, there’s also a tiling feature, where you can simply grab and flick a window to the left or the right to dock it to either side. Additionally, you can swipe up to open the Home Screen and then open any app you want. Yes, again, very much like on Mac.

The Mac features don’t stop here. Apple is also bringing in Mac-style Expose. If you swipe up and hold, all your windows will spread out in one single view, making it easier to switch between them.

The menu bar is here


Credit: Apple

Apple is also adding a Menu bar to the iPad, finally putting an end to all the hidden gestures and menus. It’ll pop up when you take your cursor to the top of the screen. It’s arranged to be similar to the Mac’s Menu bar, and will show all your app’s features and options in one place, with keyboard shortcuts, too. This will be a great option for complex apps.

Upgraded files management


Credit: Apple

The iPad Files app is finally getting the upgrade it deserves. There’s a new List view with a lot more detail for each file and folder. Even the folder icon customization feature from Mac is coming to the iPad.

Plus, the Files app now lets you choose a Default app for each file type. Folders can be added to the Dock for easier access. And just like on the Mac, tapping on your Folders will make them fan out to show all the files inside them.

Preview comes to the iPad


Credit: Apple

Preview is a dedicated app for viewing, annotating, highlighting, and filling in PDFs. Plus it works for images, too, just like on the Mac.

Not just limited to the iPad Pro

All iPads that support iPadOS 26 will get access to the windowing system, including the new standard iPad and the iPad mini.

According to Apple, the new features in iPadOS 26 will be available for iPad Pro (M4), iPad Pro 12.9-inch (3rd generation and later), iPad Pro 11-inch (1st generation and later), iPad Air (M2 and later), iPad Air (3rd generation and later), iPad (A16), iPad (8th generation and later), iPad mini (A17 Pro), and iPad mini (5th generation and later).

How to try iPadOS 26 now with the developer beta

If you want to try out iPadOS 26 before the official release, the only way to go about at the moment is using the Developer beta. Know, though, that the Public beta, which will roll out sometime in July, is a more stable option, and is probably best for most people. The Developer beta might be buggy and could be prone to crashing.

If you want to try it out regardless, first sign up for an Apple Developer account (it’s free, though you’ll need to use two-factor authentication). Next, go to Settings > General > Software Update and then tap the new Beta Updates option. Here, switch to iPadOS 26 Developer Beta. Now, go Back, wait for the Beta update to show up, and tap Update Now.

All the Features Apple ‘Borrowed’ for iOS 26 and MacOS 26

Apple announced a number of new features today during WWDC, and some of them might seem familiar—probably because you’ve seen them elsewhere before. It’s a particularly bad day for the team at Raycast, a widely popular Spotlight replacement that Mac power users know well. A number of that application’s best features—from an AI integration to searching menu bar items to triggering custom actions inside applications—are now offered in Spotlight as of this fall’s macOS 26.

But Apple didn’t just grab ideas from people building useful applications for their own ecosystem. They also tasked their world-class engineering and design teams to copy features from competing products built by other tech behemoths. There’s the call-screening feature and hold-assist features, both of which have been offered on Google’s Pixel phones for years. There’s the live translation feature, already available on Samsung Galaxy Phones. And there’s the circle to search feature, which is already available on Android. Apple’s unique vision and attention to detail made it possible to offer these features years after they were available elsewhere.

The Messages app will now mirror the backgrounds and polling features from Whatsapp and Telegram, allowing you to put pictures behind your conversations in yet another place. Only Apple could deliver this kind of seamless experience (with the possible exception of the other applications that offered them years ago, of course).


Credit: Apple

Steve Jobs himself once said, “Good artists copy; great artists steal”—a saying that he may have borrowed from Pablo Picaso (at the very least, the sentiment dates back to the 1800s). I supposed it’s true that imitation is the sincerest form of flattery, and these features are good ones—plus, some amount of copying, tweaking, and reinventing of ideas is inevitable in this space.

Apple Just Announced Two New AirPods Features No One Saw Coming

Although AirPods were just a side attraction at the WWDC 2025 keynote, Apple announced a couple of features that make the headphones a lot more useful. The company announced that you can now use your AirPods as a camera remote, and that AirPods will soon be getting “studio-quality” audio recording. These features are coming to the AirPods Pro 2, AirPods 4, and the AirPods 4 with active noise cancellation.

Using your AirPods as a camera remote

The camera remote feature is exactly what the name suggests—a way to control your phone camera from a distance. Apple is planning to let you use your AirPods as a shutter button for your iPhone or iPad. Once this feature releases alongside iOS 26 this Fall, you’ll be able to use the button in the AirPods’ stem to take photos, or start and stop video recordings. Apple says that you can press and hold the AirPods stem to take photos or toggle video recordings (depending on what mode your camera app is in). This could be great for taking group photos, creating TikTok videos, or for captures that require you to place your iPhone or iPad at an awkward angle. Apple said this feature will also be coming to third-party camera apps, too.

Studio quality recording for AirPods

During the keynote, Apple also revealed that studio-quality recording is coming to the same three AirPods models. The company said an upcoming firmware update will allow creators to record “studio-quality vocals” using their AirPods, and Voice Isolation is also being improved to further enhance voice quality. Apple is pitching the AirPods as a quality mic for podcasters, singers, and content creators, although I’ll remain skeptical of its abilities until I see this feature in action. 

The improved AirPods mic quality will work with your iPhone, iPad, and Mac, and it’ll support both Apple’s own and third-party apps. Apple promises more natural voice texture and quality across iPhone calls, FaceTime, and CallKit-enabled apps. The company attributed this to the H2 chip on the AirPods, beamforming microphones, and computational audio. 

How to Set Up and Start Using Your New Nintendo Switch 2

So, you’ve braved the pre-order sites, or maybe you’ve just gotten lucky while waiting in line—either way, you’ve got yourself a Nintendo Switch 2. Congratulations! But before you start gaming, there are a few things you’ll need to keep in mind while setting up your console. Nintendo is known for being user friendly, but also a bit particular. Case in point: You can only do a full transfer of your Switch 1 data to your Switch 2 during setup, and if you miss this opportunity, you’ll have to reset your device to try again, or manually copy over your games and save data piece-by-piece later on.

Luckily, I’ve got your back. Read on for a quick guide on how to set up your Nintendo Switch 2, and the three other features you should set up before you start playing.

How to start setting up a Nintendo Switch 2

For the most part, setting up a new Switch 2 out of the box is straightforward, but you’ll still want to pay close attention to each step before moving on, especially when it comes to transferring console data.

First, remove your Switch 2 and your joy-con controllers from their packaging. Then, plug your joy-cons into their respective slots (they’ll attach magnetically, so it’s much simpler than on the first Switch). If you don’t know which joy-con goes where, the one with red highlights goes to the right of the screen, and the one with blue highlights goes to the left.

Next, plug your Switch into power using the included charging brick and cable, and power it on. On the screens that follow, select your language and region, then read and accept the end-user license agreement.


Credit: Michelle Ehrhardt

You’ll see a screen to connect to the internet and download the console’s day-one system update. This technically isn’t mandatory, and skipping it (with the X button on the right joy-con) will instead take you to time zone settings. However, most features will be locked down, including backward compatibility, until you download it, so I recommend doing it during setup if possible. If you do skip this step, you can access the update later under Settings > System > System Update.

Once you’re connected to the internet and you’ve started downloading the update, you’ll be able to continue setup while it downloads. Now, you’ll pick your time zone and click through a couple of tutorial pages. These will instruct you about portable and TV play, tell you how to use the kickstand and extra USB-C port, and walk you through detaching your joy-con from the console (press in the button on the back of the joy-con, underneath the trigger, and pull). You can also click through an optional tutorial on connecting your Switch 2 to a TV, if you like, after which you’ll get quick guides on using the included joy-con grip accessory and the joy-con wrist straps.

If your console hasn’t finished updating, it’ll finish that now, and then take you to your first big decision: do you want to transfer your Switch 1 data to your Switch 2?

Transferring Switch 1 data to the Switch 2

During Switch 2 setup, Nintendo will allow you to transfer your Switch 1 data to your Switch 2, but there are a few caveats.

You’ll know you’re ready for this once your system update is downloaded and you’re on a screen that says “To Nintendo Switch Console Owners,” above a graphic of someone holding a Switch 1 and Switch 2. 

Next to the graphic, you’ll see two buttons: Begin System Transfer, Don’t Transfer Data, plus a third button below that explains the process to you, but leaves out a few key details.

Before you make your decision, the most important thing to remember is this: There are actually two ways to transfer data from the Switch 1 to the Switch 2, and despite what you might have read elsewhere, locally transferring your Switch 1 data to the Switch 2 during setup will not factory reset your original Switch. Unless you’ve taken extra steps beforehand, this is the option Nintendo’s setup process will recommend to you, so most users don’t need to be scared about accidentally erasing their original consoles.


Credit: Michelle Ehrhardt

If you stick with a local transfer, it will simply copy over your data to your Switch 2, so that it exists on both systems. There are a few specific cases where some data will get removed from your original device as it makes its way over to your new one, but for the most part, you’ll be able to keep using your original device as usual after the transfer, and there are ways to get that data back later on (I’ll get into that). Just know that save data for specific games, as well as some free-to-play games, may have been deleted from your Switch 1 and moved over to your Switch 2. Don’t worry— Nintendo will warn you about which software will be affected during the transfer process. Additionally, screenshots and video captures stored on a microSD card attached to the Switch 1 will need to be moved over manually later on.

How to transfer your Switch 1 data locally

With that in mind, if you want to transfer your data locally, which is what most people should do, click the Begin System Transfer button and follow the instructions—this involves signing into your Nintendo account, keeping your original Switch powered on and in close proximity to the Switch 2, and activating the transfer on your original Switch under Settings > System Settings > System Transfer to Nintendo Switch 2.

How to transfer your Switch 1 data using Nintendo’s servers

The confusion about factory resets comes from this data transfer option, which involves using the Nintendo servers. This will factory reset your Switch, and is best if you plan to sell it anyway, or if you expect to be away from your original Switch during Switch 2 setup and don’t mind setting up your original console from scratch when you get back to it. To start this kind of transfer, power on your original Switch, navigate to the System Transfer page mentioned above, then select I don’t have a Nintendo Switch 2 yet. Take note of the Download Deadline for later. Conveniently, that does point to one upside to this method: you can start it before you even have a Switch 2 in hand.

Now, click Next, then Upload Data, then OK, followed by another OK. Click Start Initialization to begin factory resetting your original Switch. 

From here, your original Switch will revert to how it was before you bought it, and you’ll need to move over to your Switch 2, click Begin System Transfer, and sign into your Nintendo account. If the system detects that you have transfer data to download from the cloud, it’ll walk you through the process. Note, however, that if you don’t download your transfer data before the deadline you jotted down earlier, you’ll lose access to it.

If you want to skip the data transfer process…

If you’d rather not transfer your data, that’s also fine, but you won’t have an opportunity to do so later, and will instead need to move games and save data over manually. Click the Don’t Transfer Data button, then Continue to move to the next step.

Adding a user and parental controls

With system transfers out of the way, you’re through the hardest part of setting up your new console. Now, you’ll be prompted to add a user to the system. Here, you can sign in with your Nintendo Account to get access to your Switch Online subscription and your collection of downloadable games, or create a local user profile. After that, you can add more users as you like, or you can save that for later (simply navigate to System Settings > User > Add User).

Next up, parental controls. Like with additional users, you can set these up later under System Settings > Parental Controls, but there’s no harm to setting them up now as well. To do so, click Set Parental Controls


Credit: Michelle Ehrhardt

You’ll have a few options. Most of these will prompt you to use Nintendo’s Parental Controls app, but you can also click the X button on the right-hand joy-con to set up limited parental controls directly on the console. Doing so will allow you to select from a number of presets that will block access to certain games and communication features, but not much else. Using the app, meanwhile, will let you set a daily play time limit, bedtime settings, restrictions on the new GameChat feature, and see reports on play time and games played. It also doesn’t require a Switch Online subscription, so it’s worth using if you have a smart device.

To set up parental controls using the app, first download it for either iOS or Android using the information on the screen, then click the “If You’ve Already Downloaded the App” button. Enter the registration code from your app into your Switch 2 system, then follow the instructions in the app to finish setup. Which buttons you’ll need to click will depend on the controls you’d like to activate, as well as for which users and systems, but it’s fairly straightforward.

MicroSD card limitations

Just a couple more screens. First, a quick warning about microSD cards. Unlike the Switch 1, the Switch 2 is only compatible with microSD Express cards, which are faster, but options for them are also a bit more limited—in other words, there’s a good chance you won’t be able to use the same microSD card from your Switch 1 on your Switch 2. To use a microSD card on Switch 2, it’ll need either of the two logos shown in the image below. A bit of a bummer, but at least a microSD card is optional (it’ll help you store more games, but the included storage on the Switch 2 is more generous than on the Switch 1).


Credit: Michelle Ehrhardt

Oh, and like on the Switch 1, the microSD slot is hidden under the kickstand, in case you’re having trouble finding it.

Virtual Game Cards

You’re technically through setup at this point, but there are still a few features you’ll probably want to configure before you start gaming. The most obvious of these is Virtual Game Cards, Nintendo’s new system for managing games purchased digitally.

Essentially, like the name implies, these work similarly to physical game cards, but over the internet. This means that, unlike with your Steam library, you can only load a game to one console at a time. “Loading” is Nintendo specific term, but for the most part, it just means your game is downloaded and ready to play.”(Technically, you can still play the same game on two separate consoles at the same time, even if it isn’t loaded on one, but doing so is a bit obtuse—click through here for more details.)

To access your Virtual Game Cards, click the Virtual Game Card icon in the bottom row on your Switch 2’s home screen—it’ll look like a game cartridge. From here, if you’ve signed into your Nintendo account, you’ll see all your digital purchases and will be able to download and play them from here. If you haven’t signed into your Nintendo Account, you’ll have the option to do so.


Credit: Michelle Ehrhardt

Now, you’ll have a few options. First, if a game isn’t loaded onto your original Switch, you can simply download it to your Switch 2 by clicking Load to This Console. If the console isn’t set as your primary device (likely the case if you didn’t do a transfer), you might see a warning if you try to open a game, depending on how up-to-date your original Switch’s software is. If your original Switch doesn’t have the Virtual Game Cards update yet, you can click the If You Don’t Have That Console button to download your game anyway. It will simply cease being playable on the other console while you use it on this one, although that’s always the case when moving a Virtual Game Card between systems.

Otherwise, you might need to link your two systems by bringing them close together and following the instructions on screen before you can load a Virtual Game Card on your new device. If you’re not able to do this, like if you’ve gotten rid of your original Switch while it’s still set as your primary device, you can remove your old Switch from your account by deregistering it. After deregistering your old console, you can set your Switch 2 as your new primary device by connecting it to the eShop. If you’re able to link your old console to your new one, this won’t be necessary for simply accessing your library, but it will extend any Nintendo Online benefits to all users on your new primary device, rather than the one associated with your Nintendo Account.


Credit: Michelle Ehrhardt

Alternatively, if you’ve managed to link your devices, you can use the device that currently has your Virtual Game Card (i.e. your Switch 1) on it to load it to your new one (i.e. your Switch 2). Simply open your games, click Load to Another Console, and follow the instructions on screen. This will have the same effect as the Load to This Console Button. Also, if you’d like to be able to continue playing a game on a device even after moving its Virtual Game Card to another device, you can enable Use Online License under System Settings > User Settings > Online License Settings to do just that. You’ll need to be connected to the internet for this to work, whereas you can play a Virtual Game Card offline, but it’s better than nothing. Plus, this enables that workaround from earlier in this section that allows you to play the same game on both devices at once.

How to lend a Virtual Game Card to someone else

You’ll also notice that you can lend a Virtual Game Card to members of a “Family Group.” To do this, you’ll first need to set up a Family Group online. On Nintendo’s website, log into your Nintendo Account, then click the Family Group tab on the left hand side of your account page. Here, you can invite members to join your Family Group via email, or create a Family Group account for your child. Note that if you have a Nintendo Switch online Family Plan subscription, members of your Family Group will be able to use its benefits (for up to eight accounts), although accounts that are part of your family group can also still use their individual subscriptions.

With a Family Group set up, on the Virtual Game Card page, click the game you’d like to lend out, then Lend to a Family Group Member. Next, bring your Switch 2 in close proximity with that Family Group Member’s device—this needs to be done in person.

Finally, click Select a User to Lend to. You can lend up to three games to three different accounts at once, and borrowers will be able to play these games for 14 days. During that time, you won’t be able to play the Game Card, and the borrower won’t get access to your save data while borrowing. However, they will keep their own save data for their next borrowing period, or if they choose to buy the game themselves. There are no limits to how often you can lend out a game, and you can re-lend games immediately upon the borrowing period expiring. Also, while you’ll need to lend out your games in person, they’ll return to you remotely.

Transferring save data

Even if you didn’t transfer your Switch 1 data to your Switch 2 during setup, you can still access its save data on your new device. You have a couple of options here.

First, the free option. On your original Switch, go to System Settings > Data Management > Transfer Your Save Data. Click Send Data to Another Console, then pick the user whose saves you want to send to your Switch 2. Pick the saves you want to send over, then click OK. Note that these saves will be deleted from your original console once moved over.

Next, with your Switch 2 in close proximity to your Switch 1 (this also needs to be done in person), navigate to System Settings > Data Management > Transfer Your Save Data. Click Receive Save Data

To move data from your Switch 2 to your Switch 1, simply perform these steps in reverse.

Second, the paid option. If you have a Nintendo Switch Online membership, you can also use cloud saves to move save data between devices. By default, these are enabled automatically and will keep both of your systems up to date with the most recent saves. However, you can also manually download cloud saves either from a game’s software menu (press + or – while hovering over it on the Switch home screen) or from System Settings > Data Management > Save Data Cloud. You can also disable automatic save data download from here, if you like.

Lock your home screen behind a passcode

Finally, you can lock your Switch 2 with a PIN for some added security, kind of like a cell phone. To set this up, simply go to Settings > System > Console Lock. Click OK, then follow the instructions on the screen that pops up to enter your PIN.

There’s plenty more to dive into with the Switch 2, which I’ll cover over the following week. For now, though, this should be enough to get you started. Happy gaming!

Samsung’s AI-Powered Galaxy Watch 7 Is $200 Right Now

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If you’re looking for a last-minute Father’s Day gift, this bespoke Samsung Galaxy Watch 7 is currently 38% off and priced right at $200. Available in multiple colors, it combines a sleek aesthetic with high-tech AI-enabled features, including comprehensive trackers that monitor various health metrics, such as heart rate, sleep, and blood oxygen levels. It has over 100 workout modes and can detect sleep apnea via tracking breathing disruptions. The Wellness Tips and AI-powered Energy Score features collect data, translating it into customized, personalized recommendations to help you optimize your daily activities, making this device a helpful accessory for wellness junkies and fitness lovers alike.

With a 40mm screen (you can upgrade to 44mm for an estra $29.99), the face of the watch features AMOLED tech, ensuring visibility even in direct sunlight. Most users find the watch easy to set up and connect to a compatible smartphone. However, it’s worth noting that it’s specifically designed for Samsung devices. Multiple Amazon reviewers mention that it doesn’t function properly with iPhones and Android phones.

The battery life receives mixed reviews, and since it lacks a charging port, it requires a magnetic charger. This PCMag review tested the watch and found that it lasts 22 hours, so if longer battery life is a priority (for instance, during camping trips), you may want to opt for the Samsung Galaxy Watch Ultra instead, which is powered with up to 100 hours on a single charge.

With an average of 4.5 stars and over 2,500 reviews on Amazon, this watch is a well-reviewed choice for fitness enthusiasts or those wanting to live a healthy, balanced life. It combines multiple health trackers while blending aesthetics with functionality, and it doesn’t have the bulky look of many smartwatches. If you’re a Samsung owner, this discounted Samsung Galaxy Watch 7 might be worth the splurge.